INTRODUCTION

Most visitors to the "City of Light" describe it in superlatives: Its
atmosphere is the most romantic, its shops are the most chic, its restaurants
beyond compare. We're among them. We've found very few cities in the world as
wonderful as Paris. 

SECTION: Sightseeing 

Paris has a gift for building grand monuments. From Napoleon's imposing Arc de
Triomphe to Eiffel's pioneering tower, and even to the whimsical and absurd
Beaubourg museum, every notable landmark seems to have monumental proportions.
But Paris has delights of a smaller, quieter nature: Manicured parks and
flower gardens give a green backdrop and a serene beauty to the broad avenues,
soaring cathedrals and marble monuments. 

The main attraction on Ile de la Cite is the Cathedral of Notre Dame. No one
should miss this Gothic masterpiece. Before going inside, notice the dreadful
gargoyles, which serve to keep evil out (and rain in its proper place). The
bell in the south tower is heard only on the most solemn occasions. Inside,
enjoy the beauty of stained glass from the Middle Ages and the 18th-20th
centuries - including the nearly 30-ft/9-m Rose Window - and admire the 7,800
pipes of the recently renovated 11th-century organ. 

On the Left Bank, the neighborhood around the Sorbonne is known as the Latin
Quarter. The Quarter has always had an intellectual, international, bohemian
character, though its winding streets have become home to more than a few
fast-food restaurants and video arcades in the past decade or two. Also on the
Left Bank is the gilt-domed Hotel des Invalides, which is a military museum
holding Napoleon's tomb (other great French marshals are entombed there, as
well), and to the west is Paris' most famous landmark, the Eiffel Tower, built
as a "temporary" exhibit in 1889 to commemorate the centennial of the French
Revolution. 

On the Right Bank, the Georges Pompidou Center (also known as Beaubourg) is
one of the world's most novel structures. The "insides" of the building are on
the outside: White, blue, green, yellow and red conduits, which serve the
ventilation, air-conditioning, fire-prevention, electrical and transportation
systems, are visible from the street. 

In the very center of Paris on the Right Bank is the Louvre, once the
residence of Louis XIV and now the home of Venus de Milo, Mona Lisa and
Whistler's mother. A massive museum housing more than 350,000 works of art
from ancient times through the 18th century, the Louvre is impossible to
digest at one go. At the very least, search out the Winged Victory of
Samothrace and the Rembrandt section. 

Place de la Concorde, the site of beheadings during the Revolution and tank
duels during World War II, is at the opposite end of the Tuileries Gardens
from the Louvre. Connecting the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe
(commemorating the victories of the Revolution and of Napoleon) is the
magnificent Boulevard des Champs Elysees (lined with shops, showrooms,
sidewalk cafes and cinemas). 

When you tire of monuments, visit the Picasso Museum, the dazzling Musee
d'Orsay (19th-century and impressionist art) and the Cluny Museum (medieval
art, including the 16th-century tapestry series The Lady and the Unicorns). 

Note: Museums are closed one day a week on Mondays or Tuesdays and certain
public holidays. Students, seniors and professionals can qualify for reduced
rates of admission, so it is a good idea to carry appropriate identification.
Anyone can buy a Carte Musees et Monuments, or the Paris Museum Pass, which
allows its holders to enter 65 museums in the Paris area without standing in
line (a great benefit, especially in summer). 80 F for a one-day pass, 160 F
for a two-day pass and 240 F for a five-consecutive-day pass. The pass can be
purchased at Metro stations, monuments, museums and the tourist office at 127
Ave. des Champs Elysees. 

SECTION: CEMETERIES 

Montmartre Cemetery - Located along Boulevard Menilmontant, Metro Pere
Lachaise, Montmartre Cemetery is famous for a hillside gathering of graves of
composers and authors, including Offenbach, Stendhal, Dumas and Zola.
Monday-Friday 8 am-5:30 pm. Free. 20 Ave. Rachel (18th). 

Pere Lachaise Cemetery - Named after Louis XIV's confessor, Father Lachaise,
this is the largest cemetery in Paris (108 acres/44 hectares) and a favorite
spot for Parisians and tourists alike. Look on the streets leading to the
entrances for a shop selling maps. A map of the cemetery will help you locate
the graves of Moliere, Balzac, Proust, Edith Piaf, Chopin, Oscar Wilde,
Isadora Duncan and Jim Morrison. Safe during daylight hours. Free.
November-March 8 am-5:30 pm (from 9 am on Sundays), March-November 8 am-6 pm
(from 8:30 am on Saturdays and 9 am on Sundays). 

SECTION: LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC SITES 

Arc de Triomphe - Take a trip to the top of this magnificent example of
Napoleonic self-celebration. At 162 ft/49 m high, it is also the world's
second-tallest triumphal arch (North Korea built one just a smidgen bigger so
it could claim the distinction as the world's tallest). Twelve avenues radiate
from the Arc; underneath it lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. 1 April-30
September daily 9:30 am-11 pm, 1 October-31 March daily 10 am-10:30 pm. 40 F
adults, 25 F youth ages 12-25 and groups of 20 or more, free for children
under age 12. Metro Etoile, phone 01-5537-7377, fax 01-4380-6412. 

Catacombs - At the end of the 1700s, millions of bones were transferred to
these underground quarries because their previous resting place, the Cimetiere
des Innocents, near Beaubourg, became overcrowded. The Catacombs also served
as French Resistance headquarters during World War II, and their secret use
was never discovered by the Nazis. Bring your own flashlight.  Tuesday-Friday
2-4 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9-11 am and 2-4 pm. Admission 27 F adults, 19 F
youth ages 8-25. 1 Place Denfert-Rochereau (14th), phone 01-4322-4763. 

Conciergerie - During the Reign of Terror, unfortunates stopped at the
Conciergerie before being guillotined. At this 14th-century work of civil
architecture, you can see the cells of Robespierre, Danton and Marie
Antoinette.  May-August daily 9:30 am-6:30 pm, September-April daily 10 am-5
pm.  Admission 32 F adults, 21 F youth ages 12-25, free for youth under age
12. 1 Quai de l'Horloge (1st), phone 01-5373-7850. 

Eiffel Tower - Built at the end of the 19th century, this 7,000-ton marvel of
latticework was almost destroyed in 1909. It disgusted many prominent
Parisians, who wanted to preserve the city's aesthetics, and was on its way to
being disassembled when its radio-tower capabilities were discovered. The
interior lighting system makes it look like a big golden candle at night.
Daily 9:30 am-11 pm; mid June through August 9 am-midnight. Admission 60 F, 43
F and 21 F to take the elevator to the third, second and first stories,
respectively; 14 F to climb the stairs to the first or second story. Closed 8
May. Champs de Mars (7th), phone 01-4411-2323, fax 01-4411-2322 or access
http://www.tour-eiffel.fr on the Web. 

Hotel des Invalides - Louis XIV ordered the first national hospital for
soldiers to be built. The resulting structure, with its gilded dome, is a
masterpiece of 17th-century classical French religious architecture. Now a
military museum, it contains flags and banners, swords, medals, armor and
other items from French military history, including some of Napoleon's
personal possessions. But the main attraction is Napoleon's Tomb: This
enormous crypt contains six coffins placed one inside the other, nesting-doll
style, with the emperor inviolable in the center coffin. Open 10 am-4:45 pm
daily October-March, 10 am-5:45 pm daily April-September. 37 F adults, 27 F
youth ages 12-17. Place des Invalides (7th), phone 01-4423-3772 or access
http://www.invalides.org. 

Notre Dame - The great, Gothic, 12th-century cathedral stands majestically on
the Ile de la Cite. Distances from Paris are measured from the 0 kilometer
plaque in front of the cathedral. Excavations around Notre Dame in preparation
for a parking garage revealed what is now known as the Crypt - 3rd century,
Gallo-Roman, late Roman and medieval ruins and the largest archaeological
crypt in Europe. 32 F adults, 21 F reduced rate, and free to children under
age 12.  Daily 9:30 am-6 pm, 1 April-9 September; 10 am-4 pm, 1 December-31
January; 10 am-5 pm, 1 February-31 March; 9:30 am-5:30 pm, 15 September-31
October; 10 am-5 pm, 2-31 November. Ile de la Cite (4th). For cathedral
information, phone 01-4432-1670; for crypt information, phone 01-4329-8351,
fax 01-4651-7098. Note: The cathedral is closed to visitors during Sunday mass
(10 am, 11:30 am, 12:30 pm). 

Palais Garnier - Considered the masterpiece of the Second Empire. It has
recently been restored to its ornate, neo-baroque grandeur, with marble of
many colors (red, blue, green and pink). If you want to see the famous Chagall
ceiling mural, be sure to go between 1-2 pm as no visitors are allowed during
opera rehearsals. (Honey from roof hives is for sale at Fauchon in Place de la
Madeleine.) Daily 10 am-4:30 pm. 30 F for unguided tour, 60 F for guided tour,
20 F reduced rate. Guided tours take place at 1 pm daily except Tuesdays; call
to reserve. Place de l'Opera (9th), phone 08-3669-7868. 

Pantheon - This enormous neoclassical structure began as Louis XV's Temple to
Ste. Genevieve and later became a secular mausoleum. Voltaire, Rousseau, Hugo,
Zola, Marie and Pierre Curie, Resistance leader Jean Moulin and Andre Malraux,
who as Minister for Culture under President de Gaulle led the restoration of
the monuments of Paris, are all buried within. 9:30 am-6:30 pm daily
April-September, 10 am-6:15 pm daily October-March. 32 F adults, 21 F reduced
rate, free for children under age 12. Place du Pantheon (5th), phone
01-4354-3451. 

Sacre Coeur - This 19th-century neoclassical basilica sits atop Butte
Montmartre, the highest hill in Paris. The central white marble dome is
surrounded by smaller white domes (making it look like a wedding cake) and is
visible from all over the city. Climb up into the dome for a fabulous view of
Paris. Open 6:45 am-10:30 pm. Crypt open 9 am-6 pm. 15 F adults, 8 F children
under age 12. 37 Rue Chevalier de la Barre (18th), phone 01-5341-8900. 

Thermes de Cluny/Musee National du Moyen Age - The abbots of Cluny lived in
this 15th-century Gothic mansion, which now houses a magnificent collection of
tapestries (notably Lady With the Unicorn). While there, see the ruins of the
Cluny thermal baths (dating to AD 200) and Paris' oldest sculpture, Boatman's
Pillar, made between AD 17 and AD 37. Wednesday-Monday 9:15 am-5:45 pm. 30 F
adults (reduced rate on Sundays of 20 F), 20 F for youth ages 18-25, free for
youth under age 18. 6 Place Paul Painleve (5th), phone 01-4325-6200. 

SECTION: MUSEUMS 

Beaubourg-Centre Georges Pompidou - The Beaubourg opened in 1977 amidst a
whirlwind of controversy - the building appears as if it had been turned
inside out, with its pipes, wires and girders visible. This bizarre, colorful
and somehow beautiful building continues to house an excellent permanent
collection of 20th-century art. Galerie Sud, on the south side of the museum,
houses temporary exhibits, while the fountain on Place Igor Stravinsky
contains dozens of animated surreal sculptures. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday
noon-10 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-10 pm. Rue Rambuteau (4th), phone
01-4478-1233.  Note: Floors 2 through 5 will be under renovation until January
2001. 

Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art - Funded by the famous Cartier jewelry
company, this collection of more than 800 contemporary artists recently moved
from the outskirts of Paris into a new, US$18 million-dollar home. The
permanent exhibit has been installed, including such artists as Gilbert and
George, Claude Viallat and Shirley Jaffe. Tuesday-Sunday noon-8 pm, Thursday
till 10 pm. 261 Blvd. Raspail (14th), phone 01-4218-5667. 

Cite des Sciences et de l'Industrie (Science and Industry Museum) - Set amidst
acres of gardens and playgrounds in Parc de la Villette, this museum features
interactive exhibits on space technology, computers, astronomy and marine
biology. One of the main attractions is the excellent planetarium. The museum
also includes the Cite des Enfants, which has hands-on exhibits geared to
children ages 3-5 and 6-12. Also in La Villette complex are the spherical
Geode cinema, where Omnimax movies are shown; the City of Music, where you can
attend a free concert rehearsal; and the Zenith rock concert hall. It's
important to reserve in advance. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday till 7
pm. 50 F adults, 35 F children ages 7 and older, free for children under age
7. 30 Ave. Corentin Cariou (19th), phone 01-4005-7223. For reservations, phone
01-4005-1212. 

Galerie National du Jeu de Paume - Formerly the site of a tennis court, built
by Napolean III. When tennis became less fashionable, it was used to exhibit
art.  Its stunning collection of impressionist art was moved to the Musee
d'Orsay in 1986. Now the museum houses contemporary art. Tuesday noon-9:30 pm,
Wednesday-Friday noon-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7 pm. 38 F adults, 28 F
children ages 13-18, free for children under age 13. Jardin des Tuileries,
Place de la Concorde (1st), phone 01-4703-1250. 

Institut du Monde Arabe - Founded in 1980, this contemporary take on Arab
architecture has photo-sensitive windows that regulate the flow of light into
the building. The musem houses both temporary and permanent collections of art
representative of the Arab world. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 25 F adults, 20 F
reduced rate, free for children under age 12. 1 Rue des Fossees St. Bernard
(5th), phone 01-4051-3838. 

Musee d'Art et Histoire du Judaisme - Paris' newest museum is housed in a
17th-century mansion in the Marais. Exhibits trace the history of Jews in
France, Europe and North Africa from the Middle Ages to the present day.
Documents from the Dreyfus case. Paintings by Soutine, Modigliani, Chagall.
Monday-Friday 11 am-6 pm, closed Saturdays and Jewish holidays. 40 F adults
(which includes a self-guided tour), 25 F reduced rate for ages 16-26.
Wheelchair access. Hotel de Saint Aignan, 71, Rue du Temple (3rd). Phone
01-5301-8660. 

Musee d'Orsay - Paintings and sculpture from 1848-1914, housed in a
beautifully renovated, luminous turn-of-the-century train station. Highlights
include Manet's Dejeuner sur l'Herbe, the portrait Whistler painted of his
mother and Monet's five paintings of Rouen Cathedral. Also: architecture,
decorative arts (furniture, silver, porcelain), jewelry and a wonderful scale
model of the Palais Garnier area. Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday-Sunday 10 am-6
pm, Thursday till 9:45 pm. Guided tours in English at 11 am Tuesday-Saturday
and 7 pm Thursday. Closed Monday. 40 F adults, free for children under age 18.
1 Rue de Bellechasse (7th), phone 01-4049-4814. 

Musee de la Mode et du Costume - A marvelous chronicle of fashion from the
18th century to the modern day. The collection of more than 100,000 garments
is housed in a Renaissance-style palace of Duchesse Maria de Farrari Galliera.
Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5:40 pm. 45 F adults, 35 F youth ages 10-25, 32 F reduced
rate, free for youth under age 10. 10 Ave. Pierre Premier de Serbie (16th),
phone 01-4720-8523. 

Musee de la Mode et du Textile - Part of the Louvre. This is a private museum
with changing exhibits on the fashions of the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries,
including clothing, costumes and accessories. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday 11
am-5:40 pm, Wednesday 11 am-9 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-5:40 pm. 35 F
adults, 32 F reduced rate, 25 F youth ages 18-25, free for youth under age 18.
In the Rohan Wing, Palais du Louvre, 107 Rue de Rivoli (1st), phone
01-4455-5750. 

Musee de la Publicite - Part of the Musee des Arts Decoratifs at the Louvre,
this collection contains historical emphemera (posters from the 18th through
20th centuries) and broadcast media (film, radio and television) commercials
from the 1930s to the present. Hours and admission prices to be determined. In
the Rohan Wing, Palais du Louvre, 107 Rue de Rivoli (1st), phone 01-4455-5750. 

Musee des Arts Africains et Oceaniens - Art from Mali, Ivory Coast, New Guinea
and Australia - as well as a tropical aquarium. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday
and Friday 10-11:50 am and 1:30-5:30 pm. Saturday and Sunday the aquarium is
open 10 am-5:30 pm, and the permanent collection is open 12:30-5:30 pm. 30 F
adults, free for children under age 18. 293 Ave. Daumesnil (12th), phone
01-4474-8480. 

Musee du Louvre - This 800-year-old building was originally the palace of
French kings. It opened as a museum - the first in Europe - in 1793. The
Louvre has just completed a US$1.2 billion expansion that was instigated by
Francois Mitterrand. The transformation began with the I. M. Pei glass pyramid
and continued with the Sackler wing (financed by U.S. philathropists Mortimer
and Theresa Sackler), the Museum of Fashion and Textiles (Musee de la Mode et
du Textile) and a shopping area called the Carrousel du Louvre. Finally, the
much talked about Egyptian wing opened. Nearly 30,000 works are on display
throughout, from Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities to paintings and
sculpture of the 19th century. Famous holdings include Venus de Milo, Winged
Victory of Samothrace, Leonardo's Mona Lisa and Michelangelo's Slaves. There
is no way to see everything in one day, so choose a wing, period or artist and
plan to return. The new entrance, Porte des Lions, is now open, so lines are
shorter. Monday and Wednesday 9 am-9:45 pm, Thursday-Sunday till 6 pm.  Closed
Tuesday. 46 F adults (45 F Monday and Wednesday until 3 pm), free for youth
under age 18, art students and the physically disabled. Reduced rates after 5
pm Mondays and Wednesdays and on Sundays. Free the first Sunday of the month.
Rue de Rivoli (1st), phone 01-4020-5151 or 01-4020-5317. 

Musee Marmottan - In a lovely 19th-century town house on beautiful Ranelagh
Park. On display are 100 works by Monet and his followers. Tuesday-Sunday 10
am-5 pm. 40 F adults, 25 F reduced rate, free for children under age 8.
Discounts for groups of 20 or more. 2 Rue Louis Bouilly (16th), phone
01-4224-0702. 

Musee Picasso - Opened in 1985, this remarkable collection, housed in an
elegant 17th-century mansion, covers several periods of Picasso's career,
focusing particularly on the later years. Open 9:30 am-5:30 pm, Thursday to 8
pm, closed Tuesday. 30 F adults, 20 F reduced rate, free for children under
age 18; 20 F on Sundays. Hotel Sale, 5 Rue Thorigny (3rd), phone 01-4271-2521. 

Musee Rodin - This elegant mansion is the perfect setting for Rodin's glowing
white marble sculptures, and the garden is full of surprises. Tuesday-Sunday
9:30 am-5:45 pm. Admission 28 F, 18 F reduced rate, gardens 5 F. 77 Rue de
Varenne (7th), phone 01-4705-0134. 

Palais de la Decouverte (Discovery Palace) - Not just for kids, the Palais is
part of the Grand Palais, an art-nouveau glass-and-steel structure built for
the 1900 World's Fair. Exhibits and films on dinosaurs, mineralogy, nuclear
physics, earth sciences, math and chemistry, plus an excellent planetarium.
Special exhibitions have separate entrance fees. Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-6
pm, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. 27 F adults, free for children under age 7; admission
including planetarium, 40 F. Located on Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th), phone
01-4074-8182. 

SECTION: PARKS AND GARDENS 

Jardin d'Acclimatation - A 25-acre/10-hectare park in the Bois de Boulogne,
complete with Enchanted River boat rides, a miniature farm, mazes, puppet
shows and a doll museum. Daily 10 am-7 pm. 13 F, free for children ages 2 and
younger. Metro Sablons or Route de Mahatma Gandhi, Bois de Boulogne (16th),
phone 01-4067-9082. 

Jardin des Plantes. - The Botanical Garden began as a single medicinal herb
garden in the 1600s and blossomed into a thriving 74-acre/30-hectare quilt of
gardens, including a play area for children, an Alpine garden and greenhouses
brimming with exotic plants. The garden is open daily sunrise to sunset. Free.
Greenhouses open Wednesday-Monday 10 am-5 pm. 15 F. 57 Rue Cuvier (5th), phone
01-4079-3000. 

Jardin des Tuileries - Flanked by the Louvre, the Seine, Place de la Concorde
and the Rue de Rivoli, the Tuileries are a perfect place to rest between
seeing the sights. An excellent example of French formal gardens - symmetrical
and manicured with terraces and pools - they were designed by Le Notre for
Louis XIV in the mid 1700s. Two wonderful small museums - the Jeu de Paume and
the Orangerie - stand opposite each other on the Concorde side of the gardens.
Metro Tuileries. 

Jardin du Luxembourg - A broad expanse covered with centuries-old trees,
winding paths, statues, lawns and reflecting pools. For the kids, there are
go-carts, pony rides, wooden merry-go-rounds, toy sailboats and a jungle gym.
Open dawn to dusk. Metro St. Michel (6th). 

Parc de Bagatelle - Wonderful rose garden, in the Bois de Boulogne. Roses
bloom March-October. Daily 8:30 am-7:30 pm, 9 am-4 pm in winter. 6 F. Metro
Sablons or Porte Maillot plus Bus 244. Phone 01-4501-2050 or 01-4077-9700. 

Parc des Buttes Chaumont - Lacking the formality of many Paris parks, the
Buttes Chaumont is verdant, rambling and hilly. There is a lake within the
park, and an island in the middle of the lake is accessible by boat or
suspension bridge.  A belvedere perched on the island affords a view of Sacre
Coeur and the rest of Paris. Children will enjoy the rough-and-tumble
landscape, the merry-go-rounds, swings, rocking horses and puppet shows. In a
residential neighborhood. Puppet shows daily at 4:30 pm at the Guignol Anatole
Theater, located at the park entrance opposite the city hall. 15 F. Located on
Avenue J. de Liniers (19th), phone 01-4398-1095. 

Place des Vosges - One of the prettiest squares in Paris, it's filled with
sandboxes, slides and swings for children and lined on all sides with arcades
(roofed promenades), where amorous couples stroll arm in arm. In the heart of
the Marais. Metro St. Paul or Bastille. 

THEME AND AMUSEMENT PARKS 

Disneyland Paris - One-fifth the size of Paris, Disneyland Paris (formerly
Euro Disney) has six hotels, numerous restaurants, a skating rink (like the
one at Rockefeller Center in New York) and six theme worlds with Disney's
interpretations of the Wild West, small-town life in the U.S. and other
motifs. All the narrations are in French only. All-day pass: 220 F adults, 170
F children ages 3-11. Twenty mi/32 km east of Paris in Marne-la-Vallee. By
train, take the RER A, get off at Marne-la-Vallee/Chessy. By car, take Highway
A4 toward Nancy and Metz, get off at Exit 14 (Disneyland Paris). Autumn hours
Sunday-Friday 9 am-8 pm, Saturday 9 am-11 pm; winter hours Sunday-Friday 10
am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-8 pm; summer hours daily 9 am-11 pm. Hotel information,
phone 01-6030-6030; general information, phone 01-6474-3000; reservations,
phone 01-6030-6053. 

ZOOS AND WILDLIFE 

Menagerie - During the Prussian Siege of Paris in 1871, the animals at Paris'
oldest zoo were eaten by starving Parisians. Today, all is well, and delighted
children can be seen communing with the baby animals. Daily 9 am-6 pm, Sundays
and holidays till 6:30 pm. 30 F adults, 20 F children ages 4-18, free for
children under age 4. In the Jardin des Plantes, 57 Rue Cuvier (5th), phone
01-4079-3794. 

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES 

Mosquee de Paris Baths - Attached to the city's main mosque is a Turkish-style
steam bath with several chambers. The farther in you go, the hotter it gets. A
bald giant who's a ringer for Mr. Clean offers the brave (or unsuspecting) a
massage that's almost as painful to watch as it is to endure. But when you've
finished, you can relax on floor mats, and waiters bring around mint tea and
sweets - from start to finish, it's an unforgettable ritual. Hours for women:
Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday 10 am-9 pm. Hours for men: Tuesday 2-9
pm and Sunday 6-9 pm. 85 F. Place du Puits de l'Ermite (5th), phone
01-4331-1814. 

Paristoric - A well-produced film on the 2,000-year history of the French
capital, projected on a giant screen. English-language headsets. From
November-March daily on the hour 9 am-6 pm; from April-October daily on the
hour 9 am-9 pm. 50 F adults, 30 F children under age 18. 11bis Rue Scribe
(9th), phone 01-4266-6206. 

SECTION: Shopping 

Paris draws lovers of perfume, wine, chocolate, haute couture, fine jewelry
and antiques. In an era of malls, this city still offers thousands of intimate
specialty shops, as well as large department stores. Designers such as Yves
St. Laurent, Christian Dior and Jean-Paul Gaultier have headquarters in the
city. From the sophisticated St. Honore area to the funky-trendy Marais, Paris
has a shopping district to suit everyone's taste. Keep in mind that the big
sales come after Christmas and again before the fall collections and that many
smaller shops close during most of August. 

Keep an eye out for: antiques, art, wine, porcelain, Limoges, enamel, original
clothing, gloves, mustard, scarves, perfumes, handblown glass, cheese,
tapestries, cognac and champagne, pottery, striped French Navy T-shirts,
Lalique crystal and Marseille sweaters (striped, with buttons on the side). 

The best department stores are Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Samaritaine
(more character than most) and Colette (chic and daring). Monoprix department
stores are a discount chain owned by Galeries Lafayette. A wonderful area to
buy antiques is a square formed by four small streets - Bonaparte, Saints
Peres, Bac and Jacob - on the 6th arrondissement on the Left Bank. It's
overflowing with stores selling Empire-period treasures. You will find
respected art galleries along the Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, in the Marais
and in St. Germain des Pres (particularly along Rue de Seine). 

If at all possible, plan to spend at least half a day at a Paris-area flea
market. The Marche aux Puces (Market of Fleas) in Porte de Saint-Ouen has more
than 3,000 sidewalk stands and permanent stalls, and every weekend tens of
thousands of Parisians wander its endless walkways to browse, bargain and buy.
We've seen everything from a used staircase and old dental instruments to fine
Louis XIV furniture and brand new leather jackets and jeans - it's a fantastic
mix of the shaky and the sturdy, the tattered and the polished, the
underappreciated and the overpriced (be prepared to bargain!). Another
favorite Paris flea market is Vanves (Metro: Porte de Vanves), held on
Saturdays and Sundays. More fascinating markets: the outdoor food markets held
each week in every arrondissement, the flower markets on Rue de la Cite on Ile
de la Cite (among others) and the stalls of old books, prints and maps along
both banks of the Seine. (Look especially on the Quai du Louvre and the Quai
de la Megisserie on the Right Bank, and the Quai des Grands Augustins and Quai
Malaquais on the Left Bank.) 

Note: The formality of French living extends to shopping customs. Don't be
surprised if you get a dirty look from a sales clerk if you enter a store and
begin handling everything. If you ask for assistance, however, you will most
surely receive a smile and the clerk's undivided attention. 

SHOPPING HOURS 

Generally, Monday-Saturday 9 am-6:30 pm. Food stores may open earlier. Most
stores close on Sunday, and some on Monday. Many smaller shops stay open until
7 or 8 pm. Butcher shops, fish markets, fruit and vegetable stands and the
like often close from 1-4 pm and then stay open until 7 or 8 pm, many closing
Sunday afternoons and Monday altogether. Small grocer shops stay open to 11
pm. 

ANTIQUE STORES 

Drouot - Serious antique buyers should stop in for an auction at Drouot, the
French equivalent of Sotheby's. Items to be auctioned may be viewed 11 am-6 pm
the day before and 11 am-noon on the day of an auction. Call for an auction
schedule. 9 Rue Drouot (9th), phone 01-4800-2020. 

Le Louvre des Antiquaires - A pricey emporium across from the Louvre. 250
shops selling art-deco objects, furniture, prints, woodcuts, dolls, clothing
and African, Japanese and Thai antiques. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-7 pm (closed
Sunday and Monday in July and August). 2 Place du Palais Royal (1st), phone
01-4297-2700. 

BOOKSTORES 

Shakespeare and Co. - Named after Sylvia Beach's bookstore (the first
publisher of James Joyce's Ulysses), this English-language bookstore is a
Paris landmark. It's had the same proprietor for 40 years. Daily
noon-midnight. 37 Rue de la Bucherie (5th), phone 01-4326-9650. 

Village Voice - This very Left Bank bookstore is a veritable institution, a
mecca for readers of Anglo-American literature. It's run by the gracious and
erudite Odile Hellier and carries an excellent selection of contemporary and
classic English-language literature as well as a wide range of literary
reviews. Check for readings by journalists, novelists and poets. Monday 2-8
pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 2-7 pm. 6 Rue Princesse (6th), phone
01-4633-3647. 

DEPARTMENT STORES 

Colette - The most chic and daring of the clothing and home-furnishing
designers at the moment. This store is an exciting, new place to shop on the
otherwise reserved Rue St. Honore. The tea salon downstairs serves light fare,
as well as 35 brands of bottled water. 213 Rue St. Honore (1st), phone
01-5535-3390. 

Galeries Lafayette - Free fashion shows every Wednesday throughout the year at
11 am and Friday (April-October only) at 2:30 pm. Reservations required.
Store open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm, Thursday till 9 pm. 40 Blvd.
Haussmann (9th), phone 01-4282-3456. 

Le Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville (BHV) - Open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm,
Wednesdays until 10 pm. 52 Rue de Rivole. Metro Hotel de Ville. 

Le Bon Marche - The Left Bank's answer to the big Right Bank department
stores. It is often less crowded, and there's a pleasant park in front where
you can rest after shopping (or munch on some of their fresh-baked bread or
other goodies from its food court). Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm. 38 Rue de
Sevres (7th), phone 01-4439-8000. 

Printemps - Free fashion shows Tuesday 10 am (all year) and Friday 10 am
(April-October only). Reservations required. Store open Monday-Saturday 9:30
am-7 pm (Thursday till 10 pm). 64 Blvd. Haussmann (9th), phone 01-4282-5000. 

Samaritaine - More character than Galeries Lafayette and Printemps.
Samaritaine also has a rooftop cafe with a panoramic view of the Seine and
Left Bank. The store is huge - you can find anything from mascara to tents,
compact discs to bicycles. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm (Thursday till 10 pm).
19 Rue de la Monnaie (1st), phone 01-4041-2020. 

SECTION: GALLERIES 

Galerie Alain Blondel - Features early-20th-century art, trompe l'oeil and
realism. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-1 pm and 2-7 pm, Saturday 2-7 pm. In the Marais
(4th), 4 Rue Aubry le Boucher, phone 01-4278-6667, and at 50 Rue de Temple,
phone 01-4271-8586. 

Galerie Claude Bernard - One of the best selections of modern art in the city.
Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-12:30 pm and 2:30-6:30 pm. St. Germain area (6th),
7-9 Rue des Beaux Arts, phone 01-4326-9707. 

Galerie Zabriskie - Exhibits photography. Tuesday-Saturday 2-6 pm. Closed in
August. In the Marais (4th), 37 Rue Quincampoix, phone 01-4272-3547. 

MALLS AND SHOPPING AREAS 

Avenue Montaigne - Haute couture - Christian Dior, Ungaro, Nina Ricci. In the
8th arrondissement. 

The Marais - The trendiest shopping in Paris is just west of the Bastille, in
the maze of narrow streets known as the Marais (the marsh). Until townspeople
drained it during the 12th century, this area was mostly swampland. In the
13th century it became a Jewish quarter (it still has a sizeable Jewish
population), later a home to many kings. Victor Hugo lived there as well.
Things went abruptly downhill after the French Revolution, and for years many
mansions were destroyed or left to decay. The pendulum began to swing back in
1964, when the Marais was declared a historical district. Today the Marais is
the hot spot for seekers of chic. Trendy and pricey boutiques have replaced
most - but not all - kosher butchers and bakeries. You'll find handmade
wedding dresses, American-style retro diners with Naugahyde booths, tapas
bars, vintage and ultramodern clothing, jewelry, antique silver and glassware,
English antiques and art galleries. Many shops are open Sundays. Stroll down
the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois (3rd and 4th) and all the tiny medieval streets
leading off of it. 

Place Vendome - For the finest names in jewelry (Cartier, Boucheron, Van Cleef
& Arpels), try the Place Vendome, in the 1st arrondissement. 

Rue du Faubourg St. Honore - A must for haute couture clothing (Lanvin, Louis
Ferraud, Hermes). In the 8th arrondissement. 

Rue Royale - Fine jewelry. In the 8th arrondissement. 

MARKETS 

Flower Markets - For flowers, check out the Rue de la Cite on Ile de la Cite,
or stroll down the tiny, sweet-smelling Rue de Buci (6th). For animals,
flowers, bulbs and seeds, work your way down the Quai de la Megisserie (1st).
The market is open Monday-Saturday. 

Marche aux Puces (Market of Fleas) - There are several flea markets operating
on weekends, but the most famous is a 4-mi-/6-km-long gathering that offers a
wide range of quality and prices and a memorable, if chaotic, shopping
experience. A good source for antiques. Saturday-Monday 7:30 am-7 pm. The flea
market stretches from Porte de Clignancourt (18th) to Porte de St. Ouen
(17th). Take the Metro to Porte de Clignancourt or Porte de St. Ouen. 

Stamp Market - Sells stamps and postcards every Thursday, Saturday and Sunday
10 am-7 pm. On the Avenues Marigny and Gabriel (8th). 

SPECIALTY STORES 

Carette - Taste the definitive macaroon. Wednesday-Monday 8 am-10 pm. 4 Place
du Trocadero (16th), phone 01-4727-9885. 

Christian Tortu - Discover flowers like you've never seen (fresh and dried) at
Paris' hottest floral designer. Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm, Sunday 11 am-7 pm.
6 Carrefour de l'Odeon (6th), phone 01-4326-0256. 

Reciproque - Secondhand takes on a whole new meaning when the label says
Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent or Christian Lacroix. Reciproque, located in the
posh 16th, is actually a cluster of seven shops that buys and sells men's and
women's couture, jewelry and accessories. Regulars include catwalk models,
actresses and ordinary folks. Some garments have only been worn a few times.
As with any secondhand store, it's the luck of the draw. Tuesday-Sunday 11
am-7:30 pm. Located at 89, 92, 93, 95, 97, 101 and 123 Rue de la Pompe (16th),
phone 01-4704-3028 or 01-4727-9352. 

UNIQUE OR UNUSUAL 

La Boite a Musique - You'll find 19th-century music boxes at La Boite a
Musique. Monday 2-7 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm. 96 Rue du Bac (6th),
phone 01-4222-0130. 

Madeleine Gely - For umbrellas, try Madeleine Gely, a shop that's been in
business for more than 100 years. Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-7 pm. 218 Blvd.
St. Germain (6th), phone 01-4222-6335. 

SECTION: Dining 

Wonderful food is France's gift to the world, and the French take cooking very
seriously. A slice of quiche from a small bistro will taste as if it had been
prepared in a fine restaurant. Everyone knows that eating - and eating well -
is the raison d'etre for many Parisians. (Good chefs attain celebrity status
and even become household names.) There are thousands of restaurants in Paris,
from French to Vietnamese to Indian to Senegalese, so choosing a few of the
best is difficult. Venture out and try as many different cuisines as possible.
You will also find variety in the national cuisine: Authentic French cooking
can be refined (at Lucas Carton, for example, and Les Ambassadeurs in the
Hotel Crillon) or hearty (Nos Ancetres le Gaulois is a good choice). 

Wherever you go, experiment with various sauces, a French specialty, and be
sure to try the coffee (on the strong side), croissants, pastries, brioches,
jams, cheeses (more than 250 kinds), oysters and truffles. The house wines are
usually superb and surprisingly inexpensive. Whenever you tire of walking, sit
down at the nearest sidewalk cafe, not only for refreshment but to observe the
people passing by. Cafe Beaubourg overlooking the Centre Pompidou is
especially good for people watching: It attracts lots of artists and their
hangers-on. Children are always welcome in cafes (and in the smartest
restaurants, too - ask for the menu d'enfant). 

There are a couple of practicalities you should know about. The first is meal
times. Parisians seldom eat breakfast in restaurants. Patisseries and
boulangeries (bakeries) sell croissants and other breads and pastries, or you
can buy coffee and a croissant in a cafe. Brunch is catching on in some
U.S.-style restaurants.  Lunch is served between noon and 2 pm (the French
traditionally eat their main meal at midday). If you wait any later, you may
well go hungry. Dinner is served from 7:30 pm onward. Those who like to dine
early may not be able to.  Brasseries, which offer continuous service, are an
option if you need a quick meal. Technically, brasserie means "brewery," but
modern brasseries are large, bright, bustling restaurants that usually stay
open late (until 1 or 2 am). For those whose children need something to keep
them going, try a croque-monsieur - a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. 

Second, this is not a country for snacking: Even cheap cafeteria meals include
three courses (not having an appetizer is considered bad for the stomach).
Most restaurants (from the bottom end of the scale up to the most glitzy) will
have a menu du jour (the menu of the day). Try to order from this menu if you
can: The food will likely be the freshest, the most seasonal - and the best.
(It will also be the cheapest way to dine.) 

Eating can be expensive in Paris, especially if you order a la carte. Those on
a budget might ask for a tourist menu (le menu touristique) in places
frequented by travelers. The selection on the tourist menu will be reduced,
but the quality won't, and the total cost will be much cheaper. Most
restaurants accept Visa; only larger establishments take American Express,
MasterCard and Diners Club. 

Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general
guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, including tax and service
charge but not including drinks: $ = less than 50 F; $$ = 50 F-100 F; $$$ =
101 F-250 F; and $$$$ = more than 250 F. 

FAVORITE RESTAURANTS 

Alain Ducasse - For an exquisite meal by a Parisian master, try this elegant
setting in an art-nouveau mansion in Paris' fashionable 16th arrondissement.
The pastry stuffed with truffles and sweetbreads and the tete de porc on a bed
of herbs are specialties. Monday-Friday 12:30-2 pm and 7:45-10 pm. Closed mid
July-mid August and Christmas week. Reservations strongly suggested. $$$$.
Most major credit cards. 59 Ave. R. Poincare (16th), Paris. Phone
01-4727-1227. Fax 01-4727-3122. 

Cafe Marly - Tourists and locals alike are drawn by the understated elegance
of this chic cafe in the Louvre. Brasserie food is served on the terrace in
full view of the glass pyramid and inside against the backdrop of a dramatic,
red interior.  A good spot for a classic Continental breakfast, after the
theater or anytime just for people watching. The food is simple and nouvelle.
Open daily 8 am-2 am.  Reservations recommended. $$-$$$$. Most major credit
cards. Palais du Louvre, Cour Napoleon, 93 Rue de Rivoli (1st), Paris. Phone
01-4926-0660. 

Guy Savoy - One of the great master chefs of this generation, Savoy is
distinctly contemporary and renowned for his fashionably light, haute cuisine.
His menu changes every three months to play to the flavors of the season,
taking advantage of the freshest ingredients. Try the langoustine soup with
lentils or the duck foie gras with mussels and mushrooms. The dining room is
adorned with avant-garde paintings and sculpture. Monday-Friday 12:30-2 pm and
7:30-10:30 pm, Saturday 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major
credit cards. 18 Rue Toyon (17th), Paris. Phone 01-4380-4061. Fax
01-4622-4309. 

Jules Verne - The famous restaurant located on the second story of the Eiffel
Tower offers excellent and imaginative French cooking as well as a splendid
view of Paris. Chef Alain Reix will tempt you with lobster fricassee and foie
gras with black radish preserve. An unforgettable dining experience. Daily
12:30-3 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major
credit cards.  Eiffel Tower (7th), Paris. Phone 01-4555-6144. 

La Verriere d'Eric Frechon - Popular new restaurant run by the former right
hand man at Les Ambassadeurs. A menu that marries adventure and tradition:
duck foie gras ravioli, roast oysters, scallops braised with orange and
coriander, turnip sauerkraut. Open noon-11 pm. Closed Sunday-Monday and in
August.  $$$. Metro Botzaris. 10 Rue de General Brunet, Paris. Phone
01-4040-0330. 

Les Ambassadeurs - Located in the famed Hotel Crillon, a dinner at Les
Ambassadeurs is as close as you'll get to experiencing a dinner at Versailles.
The magnificent frescoes and marble halls of this former palace make it worth
splurging for a meal. The food is superb, too, a perfect blend of traditional
and contemporary cuisine. Open daily noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Reservations
required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 10 Place de la Concorde (8th), Paris.
Phone 01-4471-1616. 

Lucas Carton - A favorite pilgrimage for lovers of the Belle Epoque - superb
cooking and a different wine with every course. The exceptional cuisine of
Alain Senderens, one of today's leading chefs, with such specialities as
scallop ravioli with courgettes, warm house-smoked salmon and poached
honey-roasted duck.  Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm and 8-10:30 pm, Saturday
8-10:30 pm. Closed August and 24, 25, 31 December-5 January. Reservations
required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 9 Place de la Madeleine (8th), Paris.
Phone 01-4265-2290.  Fax 01-4266-062380. 

Maceo - Named after James Brown's saxophone player Maceo Parker, this
restaurant is new to the Palais Royale area. It's a comfortable spot, with a
saloon bar and Louis XV chairs. Specialties include duckling with caramelized
turnips and veal tongue. There's even an international wine menu - a Parisian
rarity.  Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations recommended.
$$$.  Visa and MasterCard accepted. 15 Rue des Petits-Champs (1st), Paris.
Phone 01-4297-5385. Fax 01-4703-3693. 

Paul Minchelli - At this handsome seafood restaurant, the tables are big, the
chairs comfortable and the dark yellow walls are practically undecorated. The
same aesthetic applies to the food - everything is fresh, simple and
marvelously unadorned. Tuesday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Closed
August.  Reservations recommended. $$$$. Visa and MasterCard only. Near Les
Invalides at 54 Blvd. de la Tour Maubourg (7th), Paris. Phone 01-4705-8986. 

Toupary - Recently opened in the Samaritaine department store, with splendid
decor by American film designer Hilton McConnico (Diva) and a view that is out
of this world. 11:45 am-3 pm, 7:30-11:30 pm. Tea is served from 3:30-6 pm.
Closed Sundays. $$-$$$. Metro Pont Neuf. Fifth floor of Shop Number 2 of La
Samaritaine, 2 Quai du Louvre (1st), Paris. Phone 01-4041-2929. 

Violon d'Ingres - Chef Christian Constant parted ways with Les Ambassadeurs to
start his own restaurant. Named for an expression meaning a favorite pastime,
and evoking the name of the 19th-century neoclassical painter, the restaurant
has had enormous success with its inventive French cuisine and intimate charm.
Open Tuesday-Saturday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations
recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 135 Rue St. Dominique (7th), Paris.
Phone 01-4555-1505. Fax 01-4555-4842. 

LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES 

Chartier - A Paris institution where art nouveau meets New York hustle.
White-apron-clad waiters serve up 1,000 meals a day in this bustling,
turn-of-the-century dining hall. The food is average, but the atmosphere is a
big draw. Be prepared to share tables. Open daily 11:30 am-3 pm and 6-10 pm.
$$.  Visa only. 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th), Paris. Phone 01-4770-8629. 

La Coupole - Paris' "other" authentic brasserie is a big and bustling art-deco
restaurant that was one of Hemingway's hangouts. (Le Select, across the
street, was another.) The ambience is enhanced by walls and columns
hand-painted by local artists. It is recently under new management and
revamped, and sadly beginning to lose some of the old charm as well as old
customers. But the old menu lives on, and the food is excellent. Try the
cassoulet (white beans simmered in goose fat with goose, lamb and sausages) or
the seafood (lobster in whiskey sauce, oysters, sea urchins, clams). Night
owls can take advantage of the lower prix-fixe menu for just 121 F after 10
pm. Daily noon-2 am.  Reservations not accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards.
102 Blvd. du Montparnasse (14th), Paris. Phone 01-4320-1420. 

La Tour d'Argent - A sublime experience, this is a dining destination of le
tout Paris and notables from around the world. The cooking is heavenly, the
wine cellar is a wine-lover's dream, and the top-floor view of Notre Dame and
the Seine is included in the (high) price. Famous for its different
preparations of duckling (e.g., a l'orange) and sauteed scallops with sea
urchin souffle.  Tuesday-Sunday noon-1 pm and 7:30-9 pm (or whenever patrons
complete their meals). Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
15-17 Quai de Tournelle (5th), Paris. Phone 01-4354-2331. 

Le Balzar - A Left Bank landmark, one of Paris' oldest authentic brasseries.
Cozy and intimate, a favorite of the literati. Jean-Paul Sartre used to go
there with his grandmother for lemonade. The food is no-nonsense and good, the
waiters ancient and brisk. Try the choucroute (sauerkraut with sausages or
breaded pig's foot) or the raie au beurre fondu (ray in melted butter). Daily
noon-12:30 am. Closed August. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit
cards, excluding Diners Club. 49 Rue des Ecoles (5th), Paris. Phone
01-4354-1367. 

Nos Ancetres les Gaulois - Jugs of wine, plates of saucisson (dried sausages)
and long wooden tables, combined with late-17th-century decor, make this a
pleasantly different dining experience. Daily 7 pm-midnight. Reservations
recommended. $$. Accepts American Express and Diners Club only. 39 Rue St.
Louis en Ile (4th), Paris. Phone 01-4633-8959. 

ASIAN 

Foc Ly - A place to sample duck and shrimp dishes served in both Chinese and
Thai styles - whole Beijing duck, fish roll with shrimp, duck in plum sauce.
Daily noon-2:30 pm and 7-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 71 Ave.
Suffreu (15th), phone 01-4783-2712. 

La Baie d'Ha Long - Vietnamese cuisine as interpreted by a Cordon Bleu chef.
Try the royal stuffed crab, the ginger-grilled duck or the chicken in banana
leaves. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Closed August.
Reservations necessary evenings only. $$$. Most major credit cards. 164 Ave.
de Versailles (16th), phone 01-4524-6062. 

BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH 

Joe Allen - Serves U.S.-style brunches on the weekends - pancakes, toast,
eggs, bacon, sausage - along with steaks, sandwiches, fresh juices and
American coffee. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday noon-4 pm. $$. Visa and
American Express accepted. 30 Pierre Lescot (1st), phone 01-4236-7013. 

La Verriere - A great place for power breakfasts U.S. style. (The name means
The Glass Roof.) At the Grand Inter-Continental Hotel. Buffet costs 160 F.
Breakfast served 7:30-10:30 am daily. $$$. Most major credit cards accepted. 2
Rue Scribe (9th), phone 01-4007-3232. 

Marshal's Bar & Grill - Features a Sunday brunch buffet, mostly U.S. style,
with fresh juice, American coffee, eggs and bacon. U.S. West Coast decor.
Sunday brunch served 12:30-4 pm for 150 F. $$$. Most major credit cards
accepted. 63 Ave. Franklin Roosevelt (8th), phone 01-4563-2122. 

CAFES AND TEA ROOMS 

Angelina - A fashionable teatime favorite in a Belle Epoque setting across
from the Tuileries. Famous for its hot chocolate, which is so rich it's almost
a meal in itself. Open daily 9:30 am-7 pm. $$-$$$. American Express and Visa.
226 Rue de Rivoli (1st), phone 01-4260-8200. 

Cafe de Flore - No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to this
existentialist mecca on the celebrated Boulevard Saint Germain. Once
frequented by Sartre and company. The cafe remains true to its '30s decor, and
the service harks back to the elegance of that time as well. (Across the
street, you'll find the Deux Magots, a favorite of Hemingway and Fitzgerald.)
Open daily 8 am-1:30 am, Friday and Saturday 8 am-2 am. $-$$. American
Express. 172 Blvd. Saint Germain (6th), phone 01-4548-5526. 

Cafe de la Mosquee de Paris - Opens a window on another important facet of
contemporary French culture, the Muslim community. Enjoy sweet mint tea and
flaky pastries laced with honey in an authentic Moorish-style cafe on the
grounds of the Paris mosque. (The food is also brought into the antechamber of
the Turkish-style bath attached to the mosque, so you can relax naked on a
floor mat, sipping tea and munching sweets, after steaming your pores open.)
Cafe open daily 9 am-midnight. $. Visa accepted. 39 Rue Geoffroy St. Hillaire
(5th), phone 01-4331-1814. 

Taverne Henri IV - The wine selection includes a wide array of Beaujolais,
Sauternes and wines from the Loire Valley and is priced by the glass. Menu
includes charcuterie, snails, open sandwiches, fine cheeses and foie gras.
Open noon-9:30 pm. Closed Saturday evenings and Sundays. $-$$. 13 Place du
Pont Neuf (1st), phone 01-4354-2790. 

DINNER CRUISES 

Bateaux Parisiens - Even jaded Parisians are seduced by the nightly parade of
boats that cruise along the Seine. You can reserve a table through an
established company, Bateaux Parisiens, which offers a nightly cruise,
including dinner, wine and musical entertainment for 500 F or 700 F. Board 30
minutes before the 8:30 pm departure. The cruise ends at 10:45 pm. Major
credit cards accepted.  Book a day in advance. For information and
reservations, phone 01-4225-9610. 

(Several other companies also offer dinner cruises, with decor and ambience
varying greatly. You can simply walk along the Seine in the morning or early
afternoon and peer into the docked restaurants until you find one that appeals
to you.) 

ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS) 

Casa Bini - Located on a little side street in St. Germain, this restaurant's
atmosphere is as fresh and inviting as its food - lots of carpaccio and
crostini di mozzarella (slices of Italian bread topped with tomatoes or red
peppers and mozzarella, then grilled). Great place for lunch. Daily 12:30-2:30
pm (except Sunday lunch) and 7:30-11 pm. Closed one week in August.
Reservations accepted. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 36 Rue Gregoire de
Tours (6th), phone 01-4634-0560. 

Per Bacco - Authentic but light Italian cuisine from mama's kitchen with daily
changing menu. Some of the best dishes include ravioli with langoustines,
swordfish, risotto with squid and flan with buffalo milk. Monday-Saturday
noon-2:30 pm and 8-10:30 pm. Closed August. Reservations recommended.  $$-$$$.
Major credit cards but not American Express. 10 Rue Lambert (18th), phone
01-4252-2240. 

LATE NIGHT 

Bofinger - After a night walk around the Bastille, this popular brasserie
offers an elegant end to an evening. Bofinger opened in 1864 and is reputed to
have served the first draught beer in Paris. The building, with its sweeping,
winding staircase and graceful cupola, is a real Belle Epoque treat. Open
daily throughout the year, it serves dinner until 1 am. $$$. Most major credit
cards accepted. 5-7 Rue de la Bastille (4th), phone 01-4272-8782. 

Cafe Beaubourg - Poseurs, artists and assorted intellectuals hold court in
this large, postmodern cafe overlooking the Centre Pompidou. Enjoy the terrace
in good weather. Open Monday-Thursday and Sunday 8 am-1 am. Friday and
Saturday till 2 am. $-$$. Most major credit cards. 100 Rue St. Martin (4th),
phone 01-4887-6396. 

MIDDLE EASTERN 

Chez Omar - Great Moroccan couscous and grilled meats in a lively, overcrowded
atmosphere. Despite the fact that the waiters are always in a bad mood, it's a
popular place and you'll have to wait in line to get in. Daily noon-3 pm and 7
pm-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$. No credit cards. 47 Rue de Bretagne
(3rd), phone 01-4272-3626. 

SPANISH 

Casa Tina - Authentic Spanish tapas bar. Good sherry and jamon serrano. Daily
until 10:30 pm. $$. 18 Rue Lauriston (16th). Phone 01-4067-1924. 

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES 

Chez Bichi de la Goulette Belleville - Grandson Bichi runs this Paris
counterpart of his grandfather's place on the waterfront in La Goulette,
Tunis.  Dishes include kemia - pickled cabbage, orange-flavored carrots, spicy
sliced turnips - served with whole grilled fish and couscous. 88-90 Boulevard
de Belleville (20th). Phone 01-4366-8986. 

Chez Finkelsteyn - Best Jewish delicatessen and patisserie in Paris. Poppy
seed bread and cakes, apfelstrudel, Albanian cheese, onion bread. Go there
just for the mouthwatering display and the welcome. Closed Wednesday and
August. 27 Rue des Rosiers and 24 Rue des Ecouffes (4th). Metro Saint-Paul.
Phone 01-4272-7891 or 01-4887-9285. 

La Ferme Saint Hubert - Gen. Charles de Gaulle once quipped, "How can one
govern a country with more than 300 different varieties of cheese?" You can
sample some of the very best at this charming fromagerie specializing in
fondue, Roquefort tastes and, of course, wines to enhance the flavor. Open
Monday-Thursday noon-3 pm and 7-11 pm, Friday and Saturday till 11:30 pm.
$$$. Most major credit cards. 21 Rue Vignon (8th), phone 01-4742-7920. 

La Gazelle - Cameroonian specialties in the "prettiest African restaurant in
Paris." Favorite dishes include seven-spice fish and chicken with peanut
sauce.  Monday-Friday noon-3 pm, Saturday 7 pm-midnight. Reservations
accepted. $$.  Most major credit cards. 9 Rue Rennequin (17th), phone
01-4267-6418. 

INTRODUCTION | SIGHTSEEING | SHOPPING | DINING | NIGHTLIFE | RECREATION WHERE
TO STAY | CALENDAR | PICK ANOTHER CITY

Nightlife 

Night owls are in their element in Paris - not only because the city is
expertly and beautifully illuminated, and safe, but because the city offers so
much after-hours entertainment. For better or worse, Paris clings to its
tradition of cancan girls - though their costumes are less and less frilly (in
fact, there's simply less and less to them). Cabaret shows in the Moulin Rouge
(immortalized by artist Toulouse-Lautrec) and Crazy Horse (striptease) are big
and glitzy and may not appeal to everyone, but we enjoyed the international
atmosphere and cancan dance routines just the same. Check with the concierge
at your hotel for availability of tickets and current prices. 

After the show, take a ride on the famed Bateaux-Mouches (glass-enclosed
boats) on the Seine. You can take them during the day, but it's much more
romantic at night. The boats dock at Pont de l'Alma near the Eiffel Tower. 

The tangles of streets in the Marais and Bastille areas are home to the
hippest clubs and bars. On the Left Bank, echoes of postwar Paris filter out
of St.  Germain jazz clubs, which still attract the top artists. You can find
Brazilian and calypso music there as well. Many places have a cover charge
that includes the first drink. Most have full bars, and some serve meals. Call
ahead, because prices and offerings change. Also, play it safe and never
expect to pay with any credit card except Visa (except in large tourist
attractions such as cabarets). 

The weekly publication Pariscope, found at newsstands and kiosks, has complete
concert and club listings. 

BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS 

Harry's Bar - A favorite of expats and Parisians alike. Formerly the haunt of
F.  Scott Fitzgerald and Hemingway, Gloria Swanson and Noel Coward. The story
goes that a barman at Harry's invented the Bloody Mary to cure Hemingway of
his hangovers. Daily 10:30 am-4 am, but tends to close earlier on Sunday.
Piano bar daily 10 pm-2 am. American Express, Visa and Diners Club. 5 Rue
Daunou (2nd), phone 01-4261-7114. 

Kitty O'Shea's - Friendly and authentic Irish bar. The decor and Guinness are
imported directly from Dublin. The restaurant upstairs serves excellent smoked
salmon. A balanced mix of French and Anglo-Irish clientele. Daily noon-2 am.
Most major credit cards. 10 Rue des Capucines, phone 01-4015-0808. 

L'Ecluse - A chain of high-quality wine bars throughout the city. Wonderful
for sampling a wide array of wines, but especially those from the Bordeaux
region.  Light pasta dishes and cheese plates served. Open noon-midnight.
$-$$. Five locations: 15 Quai des Grands Augustins (6th), phone 01-4633-5874;
4 Rue Grange aux Belles (10th), phone 01-4241-1682; 15 Place Madeleine (8th),
phone 01-4265-3469; 64 Rue Francois (8th), phone 01-4720-7709; 13 Rue Roquette
(11th), phone 01-4805-1912. 

DANCE CLUBS/NIGHTCLUBS 

A La Java - Cool club with French songs Wednesdays, salsa Thursdays and
Fridays, accordion Saturdays and disco Sundays. Open Wednesday-Thursday and
Sunday 11 pm-3 am. Cover Thursday 80 F, Friday-Sunday 100 F. 105 Rue du
Faubourg du Temple (10th), phone 01-4202-2052. 

El Globo - A Spanish bodega on Fridays, but best known for its glittery
Saturday Night Fever parties. Open midnight until dawn. Cover 100 F.
MasterCard and Visa. 8 Blvd. de Strasbourg (10th), phone 01-4241-5570. 

Le Palace - Managed by Simply Red's Mick Hucknall, this club is a favorite of
the fashion crowd, gays and poseurs. A large place, but with many cozy nooks
for conversation. Most major credit cards. Monday-Saturday 11:30 pm-6 am.
Cover 100 F. At 8 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre (9th), phone 01-4770-7502. 

Les Bains - Turkish baths from the turn of the century revamped by Philippe
Starck. A magnet for models and wannabes, the club has an ultraselective door
policy. To be sure of getting in, book a table at the restaurant. The
set-price, French-Thai meals of 220 F, 270 F and 320 F include admission.
Restaurant open daily 8:30-11:30 pm; disco 11:30 pm-6 am. Admission:
Monday-Thursday and Sunday 100 F, Friday and Saturday 140 F. Most major credit
cards. 7 Rue du Bourg l'Abbe (3rd), phone 01-4887-0180. 

LIVE MUSIC 

Baiser Sale (Salty Kiss) - Jazz, Afro-fusion, R&B, Latino-jazz fusion, Asian
funk. Music nightly at 10 pm, closed Wednesdays. 50 F cover, drinks start at
29 F. Visa. 58 Rue des Lombards (1st), phone 01-4233-3771. 

Bilboquet - High end, upbeat jazz. Daily 10:30 pm-2 am. Reservations suggested
for dinner. Admission 120 F, includes first drink. Additional drinks average
80 F.  Fixed dinner menu, 147 F. Visa accepted. 13 Rue St. Benoit (6th), phone
01-4548-8184. 

L'Olympia - A concert hall that books mostly French rock and pop acts. 150
F-295 F. Visa accepted. 28 Blvd. des Capucines (9th), phone 01-4742-2549. 

La Villa - Chic and sleek. Jazz Monday-Saturday 10 pm-1 am. Cover charge (120
F weeknights, 150 F weekends) includes first drink. Visa and American Express.
29 Rue Jacob (6th), phone 01-4326-6000. 

Le Bataclan - More intimate than the sprawling stadiums. An international and
eclectic mix of rock and pop artists performs there. 150 F-250 F. Visa
accepted.  50 Blvd. Voltaire (11th), phone 01-4700-3012. 

Lionel Hampton - Jazz in a dark, luxurious atmosphere. Good prices, too.
Sunday brunch in fall and winter. Daily 10:30 pm-2 am. 130 F cover includes
first drink. Most major credit cards. Meridien Hotel, 81 Blvd. Gouvion St. Cyr
(17th), phone 01-4068-3042. 

New Morning - Hot, crowded and smoky, this club nevertheless has traditionally
booked some of the best international jazz talent of any Paris club. Reserve
tickets in advance. 7-9 Rue des Petites Ecuries (10th), phone 01-4523-5141. 

Palais des Omnisports-Bercy - A huge concert stadium where popular rock stars
pull in the crowds. 160 F-360 F. Visa. 8 Blvd. de Bercy (12th), phone
01-4002-6060. 

Palais des Sports - A large venue for rock and jazz concerts, starring such
popular French singers as Julian Clerc, Danny Brillant and Veronique Sanson.
160 F-360 F. Visa accepted. Porte de Versailles (15th), phone 01-4468-6970. 

Petit Journal Montparnasse - Jazz and blues. Crowded, no-frills blues
landmark. Tuesday-Saturday 10 pm-1 am. 100 F-130 F cover includes first drink.
Dinner menu 250 F and 280 F. Most major credit cards. 13 Rue du Commandant
Mouchotte (14th), phone 01-4321-5670. 

ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES 

Crazy Horse - Topless women perform a classic, extravagant cabaret show.
Weeknights 8:30 and 11 pm, Saturdays 7:30, 9:45 and 11:50 pm. 450 F-560 F,
depending on seat location. Reservations requested. Most major credit cards.
12 Ave. George V (8th), phone 01-4723-3232. 

Moulin Rouge - You will see visions of Toulouse-Lautrec paintings when you
step inside this cancan cabaret, which is more than 100 years old. Today the
show features crocodiles and more glitter than ever. Dinner (7-8 pm) and show:
770 F. Show and half-bottle champagne: 550 F at 9 pm or 490 F at 11 pm.
Reservations requested. Most major credit cards. 82 Blvd. de Clichy (18th),
phone 01-5309-8282. 

INTRODUCTION | SIGHTSEEING | SHOPPING | DINING | NIGHTLIFE | RECREATION WHERE
TO STAY | CALENDAR | PICK ANOTHER CITY

Recreation 

Even in this dense urban setting, you can find many ways to work out - indoors
in a health or sports club or outdoors in one of many parks. Paris is filled
with parks for lovers, children, joggers and roller skaters. Among the most
jogger friendly are the Champs de Mars gardens just behind the Eiffel Tower
(Metro Lena), Parc Monceau (Metro Monceau) and the Jardin des Tuileries (Metro
Tuileries, Concord or Louvre). 

Tennis and indoor swimming are available, and Disneyland Paris has its own
golf course. You can rent a bike in Paris or in such places as Versailles and
Fontainebleau. (Bicycling outside of Paris is enjoyable because the
countryside is attractive and flat.) 

BICYCLING 

Bois de Boulogne - The bicycle rental stand in the Bois de Boulogne has no
phone. It is across from the Jardin d'Acclimatation on the Route Mahatma
Gandhi. 

Maison du Velo - Rents adult-size mountain bikes only. 150 F per day.
Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. 8 Rue de Belzunce (10th), phone 01-4281-2472
(recording). 

Paris Velo - All-day mountain-bike rental from 90 F plus 2,000 F security
deposit (credit-card imprint), one-week rental 420 F. Daily 10 am-7 pm. 2 Rue
du Fer a Moulin (5th), phone 01-4337-5922. 

GOLF 

Golf Disneyland Paris - You can swing a club on this 18-hole competition
course, as well as rent equipment and take some lessons. 18 holes: 160 F
Monday-Friday; 280 F Saturday and Sunday. Nine holes: 120 F Monday-Friday, 170
F Saturday and Sunday. Rentals: clubs 110 F, electric cart 100 F (nine holes)
and 150 F (18 holes), trolley 30 F, shoes 60 F. Monday-Friday 9 am-sunset,
Saturday and Sunday 8 am-sunset. For reservations, phone 01-6045-6804. 

HEALTH CLUBS 

Alesia Club - Sauna, shiatsu, tanning, relaxation, stretching and aerobics but
no muscle workouts or pool. 150 F a day. Monday-Friday 11 am-9 pm, Saturday
11:30 am-8 pm, Sunday 2-8 pm. 143 Rue d'Alesia (14th), phone 01-4542-9105. 

Gymnase Club - Has Nautilus equipment, but only one of its locations has a
pool. 140 F per day for initial visit; 350 F per month, 1,850 F per year.
Monday-Friday 7:30 am-10 pm, Saturday 7:30 am-8 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-1:30 pm.
147bis Rue St. Honore (1st), phone 01-4703-9544. Other locations (call for
hours): 28 Ave. General Leclerc (14th), phone 01-4542-5057; 9 Rue de Malte
(11th), phone 01-4700-8095; 11 Rue Chanez (16th; this location has a pool!),
phone 01-4651-8818. 

Vit'Halles - All the latest equipment but no pool. Membership not required.
100 F per ticket or 10 tickets for 800 F (a ticket allows you to lift weights
as long as you like or take a one-hour aerobics class, for example).
Monday-Friday 8 am-10 pm, Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 11 am-4 pm. Place
Beaubourg, 48 Rue Rambuteau (3rd), phone 01-4277-2171. 

SWIMMING 

AquaBoulevard - Not only wave pools but golf, tennis, bowling and other
activities. Monday-Thursday 9 am-11 pm, Friday 9 am-midnight, Saturday 8
am-midnight, Sunday 8 am-11 pm. 69 F adults (77 F Saturday and Sunday), 50 F
children ages 3-12 (56 F on Saturday and Sunday). 4-6 Rue Louis Armand (15th),
phone 01-4060-1000 or 01-4060-1515. 

Piscine Pontoise/Club Quartier Latin - Health club with a pool, as well as
gym, squash and sauna. Monday-Friday 9 am-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 9:30
am-7 pm. Pool hours vary, so call ahead: 01-4354-0623. All-day access to club:
70 F. Pool access only: 25 F adults, 22 F children under age 16. 19 Rue de
Pontoise (5th), phone 01-5542-7788. 

TENNIS AND RACQUET SPORTS 

Timing - Eight indoor tennis courts and three squash courts. 210 F per hour
Saturday and Sunday, 155 F per hour Monday-Friday and evenings. Open 8 am-10
pm. Voie des Sables, Villejuif (five minutes from Porte d'Italie Metro stop),
phone 01-4726-7273. 

SECTION: Where to Stay 

Paris has a wide range of hotels, from the modest to the ultraluxurious, many
situated in popular neighborhoods - the Tuileries, St. Germain, Champs Elysees
and Opera areas. Apartments and bed-and-breakfasts are other options. (Most of
the smaller properties are clean and well run.) Pools are not a common feature
of Paris hotels, but fitness rooms are catching on. For a quiet room, ask for
une chambre sur cour (facing the courtyard) and avoid ones that are sur rue
(facing the street). Reservations are recommended year round but are
absolutely necessary throughout the summer and during the fall, a big season
for trade fairs and conventions. Most hotels offer lower weekend rates. 

A few of our favorites: Pavillon de la Reine (five-story mansion in the heart
of the Marais), Hotel Esmerelda (inexpensive, slightly worn, but cozy and
cheerful and directly across from Notre Dame), the Grand Hotel (old-fashioned
elegance in the Opera neighborhood) and Hotel Lutetia (old, recently
renovated, on the Left Bank). But these examples barely scratch the surface.
Paris is a city full of wonderful hotels. 

Below is a sampling of hotels; it is not intended to be a comprehensive list.
Expect costs to fall within these general guidelines, based on the standard
rate for a single room: $ = 335 F-645 F; $$ = 646 F-955 F; $$$ = more than 955
F. 

Ratings are one to four stars and four star "L," with the last being the
highest.  The French Tax Authority has skyrocketed the rate for the addition
of the "L" beside the fourth star - hence, most of the best hotels are now
displaying only four stars to save on their taxes. 

AIRPORT AREA 

Hilton Paris Orly Airport - The largest and most convenient of Orly hotels.
What it lacks in Parisian ambience, it makes up for in efficiency and service.
Tidy grounds and recently remodeled lobby. Shuttle to Orly and to city every
15 minutes. $$$. Orly Sud 267, Aerogare Cedex, Orly. Phone 1-45-12-45-12.
Toll-free 800-HILTONS. Fax 1-45-12-45-00. 

Sofitel Hotel - Modern hotel with pool, sauna, tennis. Shuttle to Roissy every
15 minutes. $$-$$$ 34 cours Michelet, La Defense Cedex, Paris. Phone
1-47-76-44-43. Toll-free 800-221-4542. Fax 1-47-76-72-10. 

AT OR NEAR DISNEY 

Disneyland Hotel - Disneyland Paris (formerly Euro Disney) has six hotels
(each offering a choice of bungalow, suite or rooms). One of these is the
Disneyland Hotel, which was built to look like the Magic Kingdom Castle. This
megahotel is reputed to have excellent services and a friendly staff. Pool,
Jacuzzi, sauna, general health-club facilities. $$$. BP 111, Marne-La-Vallee.
Phone 1-60-45-65-00. Fax 1-60-45-65-33. 

CITY 

Abotel Hotel d'Albe St Michel - In the center of the Latin Quarter, this
recently modernized hotel offers breakfast and cable TV. 45 rooms. $-$$. 1 rue
de la Harpe, 5th District, Paris. Phone 1-46-34-09-70. Toll-free 800-235-9564.
Fax 1-40-46-85-70. 

De Fleurie Hotel - Nicely situated on the Left Bank and a great find at a
moderate price. Well-equipped rooms and pleasant 18th-century touches inside
and out. Now air-conditioned. $$. 32 rue Gregoire-de-Tours, Paris. Phone
1-53-73-70-00. Fax 1-53-73-70-20. 

Esmeralda Hotel - Located directly across from Notre Dame, the Esmerelda
charms in spite of its slightly worn state. Rooms are cheap and cheerful. Some
with beamed ceilings or direct view of Notre Dame. Cozy lobby, resident cat
and ancient wooden staircase lend character. Only 19 rooms, so book well in
advance. $. 4 rue St-Julien-le-Pauvre, Paris. Phone 1-43-54-19-20. Fax
1-40-51-00-58. 

Grand Hotel Arts-et-Metiers - Old-fashioned elegance and modern amenities.
Classic favorite in the Opera neighborhood, a stone's throw from the Galeries
Lafayette and Printemps department stores. Convention and seminar facilities.
Health club, sauna. Ask about special promotion rates. $$$. 4 rue Borda,
Paris.  Phone 1-48-87-73-89. Fax 1-48-87-66-58. 

Hotel d'Aubusson - This hotel generates its warmth from the tapestries whose
city of origin gave the hotel its name and from its giant, Burgundy limestone
fireplace and antique furniture. 49 rooms. $$-$$$. 33 rue Dauphine, Paris.
Phone 1-43-29-43-43. Fax 1-43-29-12-62. 

Hotel du Palais Bourbon - Within walking distance of the Air France terminal,
the Rodin Museum and Les Invalides. A long-running family business where you
get a good welcome, and the high-ceilinged rooms are spacious and clean.
Breakfast included. $. 49 rue de Bourgogne, Paris. Phone 1-44-11-30-70. Fax
1-45-55-20-21. 

Hotel Lutetia - In the heart of St. Germain, two steps from Bon Marche and the
Latin Quarter. A grand old Left Bank hotel in the best French tradition,
recently renovated. Excellent bar and restaurant. Seminar rooms. $$$. 45 blvd
Raspail, Paris. Phone 1-49-54-46-46. Fax 1-49-54-46-00. 

Hotel Mansart - Near Place Vendome and Rue des Capucines, this 57-room hotel
honors a Parisian architect of Louis XIV. Tastefully baroque with spacious
rooms. Most major credit cards accepted. $$. 5, rue des Capucines, Paris.
Phone 1-42-61-50-28. Fax 1-49-27-97-44. 

Hotel Pavillon de la Reine - Just off Place des Vosges in the heart of the
avant-garde Marais, this five-story, 17th-century-style mansion has its own
quiet, blossoming courtyard. The interior is filled with intricate woodwork
and leather armchairs. Intimate, and one of Paris' better-kept secrets. $$$.
28 place des Vosges, Paris. Phone 1-40-29-19-19. Toll-free 800-447-7462. Fax
1-40-29-19-20. 

Hotel Plaza Athenee - Currently considered one of the most fashionable and
social hotels. Responsive, pleasant service, close to many of the
haute-couture fashion houses. No health club, but has a Michelin two-star
restaurant called Le Regence. $$$. 25 ave Montaigne, Paris. Phone
1-53-67-66-65. Toll-free 800-752-92-111. Fax 1-53-67-66-66. 

Inter-Continental Grand Hotel - Lovely old hotel next to the Tuileries gardens
and 10 minutes from the Champs Elysees. Open-air tearoom in summer. Seminar
facilities. $$$. 2 rue Scribe, Paris. Phone 1-40-07-32-32. Toll-free
800-327-0200. Fax 1-42-66-12-51. 

Libertel Quartier Latin - Near the venerable Sorbonne, this new, popular hotel
situated in an 1847 building is a favorite of Yves St. Laurent. 29 rooms.
$$-$$$.  9, rue des Ecoles, Paris. Phone 1-44-27-06-45. Toll-free
800-221-4542. Fax 1-43-25-36-70. 

Tourisme Hotel - In spite of its bland name, this is an overall great bargain.
Within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower, the rooms are clean, modern and
comfortable. Colonial decor with a French flair. Total 60 rooms, accepts
groups up to 20. $. 66 ave de la Motte-Picquet, Paris. Phone 1-47-34-28-01.
Fax 1-47-83-66-54. 

Paris Calendar 

INTRODUCTION 

The City of Light is synonymous with culture, and Paris dazzles with a myriad
of performances and art exhibits. In addition, seasonal festivals allow
visitors a chance to stray from customary sightseeing routines and mingle with
Parisians.  Summer events gradually give way to the outdoor festivals of
autumn and winter holidays, while indoors, spectators fill opera, ballet and
concert halls as the performance season gets under way. Paris lives up to its
reputation as the City of Light with holiday lighting displays that dazzle
with Parisian panache. 

All phone numbers listed below are for local calls within Paris (its city code
has been changed from 1 to 01). When calling from inside Paris or anywhere in
France, dial the 10-digit number beginning with 01. (In some cases, as with
dialing 800 in the U.S., French numbers begin with 08, indicating a toll-free
number.) When calling from outside the country, dial your country's
international access code, plus France's country code, 33, then drop the 0
from the Paris city code and dial the remaining nine digits. It is not
necessary to dial a city code when a number listed begins with 08. 

Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed. 

Note: A number in parentheses following a street address or location indicates
the arrondissement (district). 

OCTOBER 2000 

Early-Late October - Harvest Festival. Fetes de Vendanges grape harvesting in
the Parc de Bercy (12th), Parc Georges-Brass (15th), Montmartre (18th) and
Parc de Belleville (20th). 

1 Oct - Horse Races. A crown jewel of international racing, the Prix de l'Arc
de Triomphe is run at Longchamp racetrack. Hippodrome de Longchamp, Routes des
Tribunes, Bois de Boulogne (16th). Phone 01-4910-2030. 

1 Oct - Opera. L'Opera National de Paris presents Verdi's Nabucco at the Paris
Bastille, Gate 2, Place de la Bastille (11th). Phone 08-3669-7868.
http://www.opera-de-paris.fr. 

1-15 Oct - Biennial International Auto Show. Every two years, the Porte de
Versailles Convention Center (15th) hosts Mondial de l'Automobile. Phone
01-5688-2240. E-mail info@amcpromotion.com. Concludes 15 Oct. 

1-31 Oct - Art Exhibit. "Archaeological Collections and the Splendor of
Chinese Silverware" displays Chinese objects made from precious metals from
the Han, Tang and Liao periods. Musee du Petit Palais, Avenue Winston
Churchill (8th).  Phone 08-4265-1273. Continues through 30 Dec. 

8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 19 Oct - Dance. Ballet de l'Opera presents Raymonda.
Purchase tickets by calling 08-3669-7868 (four weeks before the first
performance) or at the box office (two weeks before the first performance).
Opera Bastille, 12 Rue de Lyon (12th). 

10-31 Oct - Art Exhibit. The Center Pompidou presents "Les bons genies de la
vie domestique," an exhibit showing off various technological and design
advances of the last century that have benefitted homemakers and families,
prompting a worldwide lifestyle revolution. 19 Rue Beaubourg (4th). Phone
01-4478-1233; recorded message 01-4478-4086. http://www.cnac.gp.fr.  Continues
through 15 Jan 2001. 

15 Oct - Horse Races. Both the Prix de la Foret and the Prix du Conseil de
Paris are held at Longchamp racetrack. Hippodrome de Longchamp, Routes des
Tribunes, Bois de Boulogne (16th). Phone 01-4910-2030. 

16, 18, 20, 22 Oct - Opera. Rene Jacobs conducts Mozart's Cosi fan tutte (sung
in Italian, translated into French) at the Theatre de Champs-Elysees, 15
Avenue Montaigne (8th). Phone 01-4952-5050. 

17, 19, 25, 28, 31 Oct - Opera. L'Opera National de Paris presents Puccini's
Tosca at the Paris Bastille, gate 2, Place de la Bastille (11th). Phone
08-3669-7868. http://www.opera-de-paris.fr. Continues through 11 Nov. 

20-31 Oct - Art Exhibit. The Louvre brings together masterpieces by Rubens,
Ingres, Canova, Rodin, Cezanne, Brancusi, Magritte, Dali, Arman and Matisse
with an eye on how classics and antique styles influenced these artists in
"D'apres L'Antique." Enter the museum at la Pyramide Cour Napoleon (1st).
Phone 01-4020-5151. http://www.louvre.fr. E-mail info@louvre.fr. Continues
through 15 Jan 2001. 

22 Oct - Horse Races. The Prix Royal Oak is held at Longchamp racetrack.
Hippodrome de Longchamp, Routes des Tribunes, Bois de Boulogne (16th).  Phone
01-4910-2030. 

24-30 Oct - FIAC Art Fair. This international event marks the opening of the
Paris art season, attended by collectors, curators and critics. FIAC is Foire
Internationale d'Art Contemporain. Pavillon du Parc de Paris-Expo, Porte de
Versailles. Phone 08-3668-0051. 

24, 26, 29 Oct - Opera. L'Opera National de Paris presents Prokofiev's La
Guerre et la Paix at the Paris Bastille, gate 2, Place de la Bastille (11th).
Phone 08-3669-7868. http://www.opera-de-paris.fr. Continues through 9 Nov. 

Throughout October - Festival d'Automne. Autumn festival with theater, ballet,
film retrospectives, music and exhibitions in venues throughout the city and
its environs. For information on programs and venues, call 01-5345-1700.
Continues through 30 Dec. 

Throughout October - Giant Ferris Wheel Rides. To celebrate the millennium
through the year 2000 with a particular Parisian joie. You can ride a giant,
illuminated Ferris wheel and enjoy panoramic views. Commentary in several
languages. Place de la Concorde (8th). Continues through 31 Dec. 

Throughout October - Architecture Exhibit. Using a multimedia electronic
"book," this temporary structure illustrates the dramatic influence of
literature on urban design and the impact of city life on modern literature.
Far from static, this intriguing show utilizes a sound-and-light show to make
its point. Place du Palais Royal (3rd). Phone 08-3668-3112. Continues through
1 Jan 2001. 

Throughout October - Concerts. The Orchestre de Paris performs in Salle
Pleyel, 252 Rue du Faubourg St. Honore (8th). For program information and
tickets, call 01-4561-6589. Continues through early June 2002. 

Throughout October - Exhibit. The Center Pompidou looks back at the 20th
century with "Regards d'un siecle," using various images to unveil 20 historic
moments of the closing century. Rue Beauborg (4th). Phone 01-4478-1233;
recorded info 01-4277-1112. http://www.cnac.gp.fr. Continues through 27 Nov.

Throughout October - Art Exhibit. Musee du Luxembourg presents "Masterpieces
of the Rau Collection," covering five centuries of Western art history, from
the Renaissance to the 1950s. Major paintings by El Greco, Millet, Pissarro,
Degas, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir and more. Open daily, including holidays. 19 Rue
de Vaugirard (6th). Phone 01-4234-2595. Continues through 4 Jan 2001. 

Throughout October - Art Exhibit. "Magic and Enchantment in Ancient Egypt"
brings together some 250 objects, including amulets, magic wands, statuettes -
all part of the equipment of the magician in Egypt. At the Louvre, Pyramide
Cour Napoleon (1st). Phone 01-4020-5151. http://www.louvre.fr.  E-mail
info@louvre.fr. Continues through 8 Jan 2001. 

NOVEMBER 2000 

Early-Late November - Christmas Lights. Holiday illuminations light up the
Champs Elysees and the banks and bridges of the Seine, the boulevards
Haussmann, St. Honore, Rue Royale and Avenue Montaigne as well as the banks of
the city's islands, Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis. Continues through early
January 2001. 

1 Nov - All Saints' Day. Public holiday. 

1-27 Nov - Exhibit. The Center Pompidou looks back at the 20th century with
"Regards d'un siecle," using various images to unveil 20 historic moments of
the closing century. Rue Beauborg (4th). Phone 01-4478-1233; recorded info
01-4277-1112. http://www.cnac.gp.fr. Concludes 27 Nov. 

1, 4, 7, 9 Nov - Opera. L'Opera National de Paris presents Prokofiev's La
Guerre et la Paix at the Paris Bastille, gate 2, Place de la Bastille (11th).
Phone 08-3669-7868. http://www.opera-de-paris.fr. Concludes 9 Nov. 

2-4 Nov - Dance. The Frankfurt Ballet presents Jan Lawyers and Needcompany in
James Joyce's The Dead based on the author's book. At Theatre de la Ville, 31
Rue des Abbesses (4th). Phone 01-4274-2277. 

2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11 Nov - Dance. Ballet de L'Opera presents "Spectacle
de ballets William Forsythe" at the Palais Garnier, Place de l'Opera (9th).
Purchase tickets by calling 08-3669-7868 (four weeks before the first
performance) or at the box office (two weeks before the first performance). 

3, 6, 11 Nov - Opera. L'Opera National de Paris presents Puccini's Tosca at
the Paris Bastille, gate 2, Place de la Bastille (11th). Phone 08-3669-7868.
http://www.opera-de-paris.fr. Concludes 11 Nov. 

6, 7, 9, 10 Nov - Opera. Philippe Boesman's winter opera based upon William
Shakespeare's A Winter's Tale at the Theatre du Chatelet, 1 Place du Chatelet.
Phone 01-4028-2840. http://www.chatelet-theatre.com. 

11 Nov - Armistice Day. Public holiday. 

13-19 Nov - Tennis. The Paris Open is an international men's tennis
championship, played at the Palais Omnisport, Paris-Bercy 8, Boulevard de
Bercy. Phone 08-0303-0031. 

14 Nov - Concert. Pop sensation Britney Spears brings her hits to the City of
Light. Zenith 211, Avenue Jean-Jaure. Phone 08-0380-8803. 

16 Nov - Beaujolais Festival. The season's first harvest of the light wine is
traditionally released at midnight before the third Thursday in November, when
cafes and restaurants throughout the city pour it liberally. 

24, 26, 27, 30 Nov - Opera. Engelbert Humperdinck's German opera Hansel and
Gretel at the Theatre du Chatelet, 1 Place du Chatelet (1st). Phone
01-4028-2840. http://www.chatelet-theatre.com. Continues through 2 Dec. 

25, 27, 30 Nov - Opera. L'Opera National de Paris presents Gaetano Donizetti's
Lucia di Lammermoor at the Paris Bastille, gate 2, Place de la Bastille
(11th).  Phone 08-3669-7868. http://www.opera-de-paris.fr. Continues through
15 Dec. 

Throughout November - Festival d'Automne. Autumn festival with theater,
ballet, film retrospectives, music and exhibitions in venues throughout the
city and its environs. For information on programs and venues, call
01-5345-1700.  Continues through 30 Dec. 

Throughout November - Giant Ferris Wheel Rides. To celebrate the millennium
through the year 2000 with a particular Parisian joie. You can ride a giant,
illuminated Ferris wheel and enjoy panoramic views. Commentary in several
languages. Place de la Concorde (8th). Continues through 31 Dec. 

Throughout November - Art Exhibit. "Archaeological Collections and the
Splendor of Chinese Silverware" displays Chinese objects made from precious
metals from the Han, Tang and Liao periods. Musee du Petit Palais, Avenue
Winston Churchill (8th). Phone 08-4265-1273. Continues through 30 Dec. 

Throughout November - Architecture Exhibit. Using a multimedia electronic
"book," this temporary structure illustrates the dramatic influence of
literature on urban design and the impact of city life on modern literature.
Far from static, this intriguing show utilizes a sound-and-light show to make
its point. Place du Palais Royal (3rd). Phone 08-3668-3112. Continues through
1 Jan 2001. 

Throughout November - Concerts. The Orchestre de Paris performs in Salle
Pleyel, 252 Rue du Faubourg St. Honore (8th). For program information and
tickets, call 01-4561-6589. Continues through early June 2002. 

Throughout November - Art Exhibit. The Center Pompidou presents "Les bons
genies de la vie domestique," an exhibit showing off various technological and
design advances of the last century that have benefitted homemakers and
families, prompting a worldwide lifestyle revolution. 19 Rue Beaubourg (4th).
Phone 01-4478-1233; recorded message 01-4478-4086. http://www.cnac.gp.fr.
Continues through 15 Jan 2001. 

Throughout November - Art Exhibit. Musee du Luxembourg presents "Masterpieces
of the Rau Collection," covering five centuries of Western art history, from
the Renaissance to the 1950s. Major paintings by El Greco, Millet, Pissarro,
Degas, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir and more. Open daily, including holidays. 19 Rue
de Vaugirard (6th). Phone 01-4234-2595. Continues through 4 Jan 2001. 

Throughout November - Art Exhibit. "Magic and Enchantment in Ancient Egypt"
brings together some 250 objects, including amulets, magic wands, statuettes -
all part of the equipment of the magician in Egypt. At the Louvre, Pyramide
Cour Napoleon (1st). Phone 01-4020-5151. http://www.louvre.fr.  E-mail
info@louvre.fr. Continues through 8 Jan 2001. 

Throughout November - Art Exhibit. The Louvre brings together masterpieces by
Rubens, Ingres, Canova, Rodin, Cezanne, Brancusi, Magritte, Dali, Arman and
Matisse with an eye on how classics and antique styles influenced these
artists in "D'apres L'Antique." Enter the museum at la Pyramide Cour Napoleon
(1st). Phone 01-4020-5151. http://www.louvre.fr. E-mail info@louvre.fr.
Continues through 15 Jan 2001.