INTRODUCTION Florence often overwhelms its visitors with priceless art and historic architecture from the late Middle Ages to the golden age of the Renaissance. Your first glimpse of the Duomo's implausibly large, red cupola-an engineering miracle from the 1400s-is breathtaking. Palaces, churches and monuments follow one another in dizzying succession, and the spirits of Leonardo da Vinci, Dante, Machiavelli, Michelangelo and the Medicis are palpable on virtually any street. Florence's combination of unequalled beauty with centuries of history is a heady mixture. SECTION: Sightseeing Visitors rarely allot enough time for Florence, partly because until you've been there, it's difficult to comprehend how much there is to experience in this city. Any visit to Florence, brief or extended, should begin with the magnificent Duomo. Don't be content with a picture of its stunning exterior: Go inside and gaze at the frescoes and admire the view from the top of the cupola. Afterward, check out the exquisite detail in the bronze doors of the adjacent Baptistery. Florence's second-most striking landmark is probably Palazzo Vecchio. This trapezoid-shaped building on Piazza della Signoria still functions as city hall. Take a tour and learn the reason for the palace's unusual dimensions. The most celebrated art museum in the city is the Uffizi Gallery, which has 13th- to 18th-century Italian and European masterworks-paintings by Botticelli, Hugo van der Goes, Titian, Rubens, Caravaggio, Raphael and Rembrandt, among others. Some of the city's other art galleries can stand comparison with the Uffizi (if you don't want to wait in long lines), such as the Bargello, with its impressive collection of medieval and Renaissance sculpture, including Donatello's Marzocco-the lion symbol of Florence; and the Palatine Gallery and Royal Apartments within Palazzo Pitti (16th- and 17th-century paintings by Raphael, Titian, Veronese, Rubens and Van Dyck in stunning baroque interiors, plus fully furnished apartments dating back to the last kings of Italy). The Accademia is chiefly known for housing Michelangelo's David, although his many other sculptures would be worth the visit in themselves. Cross the Arno on Ponte Vecchio, which has spanned the river since 1345. The bridge still has shops and rooms jutting out over the sides, a common feature in the Middle Ages, although few examples remain today. Sites on the other side of the Arno include Palazzo Pitti, the archetype of all European royal residences and one of the best preserved, with beautifully decorated rooms and the gorgeous Boboli Gardens on the backing hillside. Don't confuse this palace with the Medici Palace by Michelozzo on Via Cavour or the Medici chapels, which are connected to the Church of San Lorenzo, though both are well worth a visit in their own right. SECTION: LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC SITES Battistero di San Giovanni (Baptistery)-First mentioned in 897, the Baptistery is the oldest building in Florence-thought to date back to the 300s or 400s. However, its present look stems from 11th- and 12th-century renovations. The monumental doors trace the development of Florentine sculpture from Gothic to Renaissance style. It's most interesting to examine the doors in an order that traces this development: Start with the south doors (facing Via Calzaiuoli), then the north (facing Via Martelli) and finally the east. Michelangelo called the mid-15th-century doors on the east side the "Doors of Paradise." The work of Lorenzo Ghiberti, they represent a revolutionary introduction of perspective into relief sculpture. Monday-Saturday noon-6:30 pm, Sunday and public holidays 8:30 am-1:30 pm. 5,000 lire. Piazza San Giovanni. Phone 055-230-2885. Boboli Gardens-Eleanora di Toledo, wife of Cosimo I of the Medici family, decided to have a garden built behind her new home, Palazzo Pitti, in 1549. The greatest talents of the day were summoned to the task, and the splendid result is a true giardino all'Italiana, with lush greenery, groves of trees, narrow paths, grottoes, fountains, ponds and a number of antique and late-Renaissance statues. Also on the grounds are the Museo delle Porcellane (Porcelain Museum) and an amphitheater, which Edith Wharton called one of the triumphs of Italian garden architecture. A coffeehouse on the premises invites you to sip an expensive drink and enjoy an unforgettable view. The gardens open at 9 am year round, but closing times vary with the season: November-February, 4:30 pm; in March 5:30 pm; in April 6:30 pm; May-October 8 pm. (The gardens are closed the first and last Monday of the month.) 4,000 lire. There are three entrances (and ticket offices): on the left side of the Palazzo Pitti courtyard; on Via Romana, the street to the right of the palace; and on Piazzale di Porta Romana, through a gate in the city wall to the right of Porta Romana (one of the city gates). If there's a long line at the palace entrance, try one of the others: Few tourists know about them. Phone 055-265-1816 or 055-265-1838. Your ticket is good for admission to the Porcelain Museum. It's open Sunday-Friday till 1:50 pm. (The museum is closed the second and fourth Sunday and all but the third Monday of the month.) Phone 055-238-8709. Cappella Brancacci-One of the less-publicized jewels of Florence, the Cappella Brancacci is a side chapel of the relatively unprepossessing church of Santa Maria del Carmine. Don't be dismayed by the outside because inside is some of the very best work of Masaccio (with contributions from Filippino Lippi and Masolino): a series of frescoes (recently restored), depicting scenes from the book of Genesis and from the life of St. Peter. When you enter the Renaissance cloister leading to the chapel, you'll immediately notice an air of peace and calm. Monday and Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday and public holidays 1-5 pm. (The ticket office closes at 4:30 pm.) 5,000 lire adults, 3,750 lire seniors and youths ages 12-20. Piazza del Carmine (the door to the right of the main church entrance). Phone 055-238-2195. Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (Duomo)-The cathedral, one of the largest in the world, is topped by Filippo Brunelleschi's cupola, a stupendous feat of 15th-century engineering. The architect used a method of his own creation to build it, inventing equipment and machines to meet his needs. The inside of the church is vast, imposing and severe. The inner vault of the dome features Giorgio Vasari and Federico Zuccari's Last Judgment, the largest painting in the world and recently uncovered after 16 years of restoration. The Duomo is open Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 1:30-5 pm. (On the first Saturday of the month, it closes at 3:30 pm.) Free. Piazza del Duomo. Phone 055-230-2885. The Brunelleschi cupola affords a wonderful panorama of Florence from the base of the lantern (up 463 steps). You'll first pass inside one of the pilasters, then inside the dome itself. To get an impressive view of the church below and the frescoes above (though they tend to look distorted up close), you can walk along one of the inner balconies running around the drum (the octagonal wall supporting the dome). While inside the dome, notice its structure: the famous herringbone pattern followed by courses of bricks. The cupola is open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-7:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-5 pm. (On the first Saturday of the month, it closes at 3:20 pm.) 10,000 lire. Enter through the Porta dei Canonici, the door on the south side of the church that faces Via dello Studio. Giotto's bell tower provides picturesque views of the cathedral, the cupola, Palazzo Vecchio, the Church of San Lorenzo and more through its imposing mullion windows and tracery marble fences. (And you only have to climb 414 steps.) It's open daily 9 am-7:30 pm. 10,000 lire. Church of San Miniato al Monte-A five-minute walk from Piazzale Michelangelo (going to the right if you turn your back to the city) takes you to the Church of San Miniato al Monte. One of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque churches in Italy, it offers a breathtaking view of Florence. Its green and white marbled facade can be spotted from the city itself, if you look up toward the hills while standing on the bank of the Arno near the Uffizi. The church contains a number of treasures, but we particularly like Spinello Aretino's 14th-century frescoes in the sacristy that depict scenes from the life of St. Benedict. The church was used by Michelangelo during the siege of 1529-1530, and his battlements surround the property. You can still see traces of artillery fire on the unfinished bell tower. The cemetery around the church is the most famous in Florence: A number of personalities are buried there, among them Carlo Lorenzini (pen name Collodi), author of Pinocchio. Daily 8 am-7:30 pm (summer), 8 am-12:30 pm and 2:30-7:30 pm (winter). Free. Via di Monte alle Croci (also accessible from the travertine stairs on Viale Galilei). Phone 055-234-2731. Medici Chapels-These chapels, part of a larger complex including the Church of San Lorenzo, were commissioned by the Medici family for their own glorification. The New Sacristy, designed by Michelangelo, contains a number of his most famous and moving sculptures adorning tombs of the Medici. The larger Chapel of the Princes is astonishing with its variety of marble, metals and precious stones used for decoration. It also contains some of the finest examples of commesso di pietre dure (hard stone inlays), also called-inaccurately-Florentine mosaic. Daily 8:30 am-6 pm, except public holidays 8:30 am-1:50 pm. (The chapels are closed the first, third and fifth Monday and the second and fourth Sunday of the month.) 11,000 lire. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini. Phone 055-238-8602. Palazzo Pitti-Originally built in 1458 by the influential banker Luca Pitti, the palace was purchased about a century later by Cosimo I of the Medici family, and he and his wife set out to enlarge it. They commissioned the Vasari Corridor (Il Corridoio Vasariano), which connects the palace with the Uffizi across the river, and also the adjacent Boboli Gardens. Successive generations of Medicis enlarged it further in order to house their courts. There are eight separate museums in this huge edifice. The most important is the Palatine Gallery, which houses works by Old Masters. Among the others are museums devoted to silver (with precious items of various materials, not just silver), modern art (from the Napoleonic era to the 1940s, not Warhol-type modern), clothing and carriages. The carriage museum is currently closed for restoration. Ticket office for the museums is on the right side of the courtyard. Palazzo Pitti 1. Palazzo Vecchio-The palace and the surrounding square have been at the heart of Florentine political life since their inception in the 1200s. The palace is still city hall, so its vitality and importance for the Florentines are preserved. (It's against the law to sit, eat or drink on the steps of the palace.) The unusual shape of the building and the off-center position of the main entrance and the bell tower have interesting historical antecedents. The building took on its trapezoidal shape thanks to the Guelph government's reluctance to build on the soil of the formerly Ghibelline neighborhood, which they, as victors, had razed to the ground. The tower is placed asymmetrically thanks to Florentine parsimony (still alive and well): The city government merely elongated a preexisting tower to save money. A significant portion of the building is open to visitors. Monday-Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 9 am-7 pm; Thursday and Sunday 9 am-2 pm. (The ticket office closes 45 minutes before closing time.) 11,000 lire. Piazza della Signoria. Phone 055-276-8465. Piazzale Michelangelo-This panoramic terrace on a hill overlooking Florence offers a splendid view, encompassing not only the city but also the surrounding hills. This area was one of the hot spots in the siege of 1529-1530, when Michelangelo was appointed military engineer. For his role in defending Florence, the city decided-centuries later in the 1800s-to name a new enormous, open square and avenue after the artist. An uninspiring monument to him was erected there in 1875, combining full-size bronze copies of David and the four allegories of Dawn, Day, Dusk and Night. The area gets very crowded on weekend afternoons and evenings, especially in fine weather. The "Piazzale," as it's known to the Florentines, makes a delightful 20-minute walk from Piazza Giuseppe Poggi. Try to catch the view at sunset. Ponte Vecchio-The "old bridge" is a unique structure and a symbol of Florence. The bridge in its current shape dates back to 1345. It spans the narrowest point of the Arno, on the site of the original Roman bridge. The jewelers shops you see today housed butcher shops and grocers until 1593, when Ferdinand I of the Medici family decided that such humble shops were unsuitable for a bridge connecting the Medici residence (Palazzo Pitti) and the government offices (the Uffizi), so he doubled the rents. The two lines of shops break in the center, affording beautiful views up- and downstream. On the right bank (di qua d'Arno), Via Por Santa Maria takes you directly to the Duomo; on the left bank (Oltrano), Via de' Guicciardini leads to the Palazzo Pitti. SECTION: MUSEUMS Museum times and prices change frequently, and museums occasionally close for renovation. Keep in mind that some museums close at 1 or 2 pm and don't reopen for the rest of the day. There's a general move toward extending museum and gallery hours, and in each of the last three years, the Uffizi and Accademia have extended their hours in spring, summer and early fall. However, there's no guarantee that such experiments will continue: Check with any of the tourist offices for the latest information. Entrance into some museums can be booked in advance by calling Firenze Musei. A 2,000-lire service fee is charged, but having your tickets in hand will save a lot of time for such crowded museums as the Uffizi and the Accademia, especially during peak tourist season (around Easter and in April and May). Book tickets at least a day in advance. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-6:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-12:30 pm. Phone 055-294-883. Bargello Museum-Like the Uffizi, the Bargello is a world-class museum housed in a palazzo of historical and architectural importance. In a city with fewer artistic treasures than Florence, the 13th-century building, even empty, would be a museum. It originally housed the city's legal authorities and prison, but today the Bargello hosts the best collection of Italian Renaissance sculpture in Italy. Many of the masterpieces served as watersheds in the historical development of sculpture. Epochal works by Michelangelo, Verrocchio, Giambologna and Benvenuto Cellini are included in the collection. Daily 8:30 am-1:50 pm. (The museum is closed the second and fourth Monday and the first, third and fifth Sunday of the month.) 8,000 lire. Via del Proconsolo 4. Phone 055-238-8606. Chapel of the Wise Men-This small family chapel within the Medici home is a little jewel, thanks to Benozzo Gozzoli's gorgeous frescoes. Restoration of the chapel was completed in the early 1990s, revealing the vibrant colors of the original. The Medicis are represented as part of a procession of Wise Men, which winds continuously around three of the walls to the nativity scene, which hangs on the fourth wall above the altar. The frescoes are painted against a delightfully detailed background of Tuscan hills. Children will be intrigued by the scene: It's filled with little leashed lions, dogs, horses and other amusing players. Gozzoli himself peers out from under his red cap. Your ticket is good for admission into the courtyard, garden and Galleria di Luca Giordano (one of the finest baroque interiors in town) of the Medici Palace. Thursday-Tuesday 9 am-7 pm. 8,000 lire adults, 5,000 lire children ages 6-12. Entrance is inside the palace. Via Cavour 3. Phone 055-276-0340. Galleria d'Art Moderna-Classical modern art (from the Napoleanic era to the 1940s). Sunday-Friday 8:30 am-1:45 pm. (Closed the second and fourth Sunday and the first and third Monday of the month.) 8,000 lire. Palazzo Pitti. Phone 055-238-8616. Galleria del Costume-Period costumes and clothing. Sunday-Friday 8:30 am-1:45 pm. (Closed the second and fourth Sunday and the first and third Monday of the month.) 8,000 lire. Palazzo Pitti. Phone 055-238-8713. Galleria dell'Accademia-Of the three Michelangelo Davids in Florence, the "real" one can be admired here. In 1873, it was moved from its original place in front of Palazzo Vecchio, where a copy of it stands today. The David is not, however, the only masterpiece in the Accademia. Michelangelo's "prisoners" seem to struggle to emerge from the marble. There's also a notable collection of 13th- to 18th-century paintings, which-as is often the case in Florence-would alone constitute a remarkable museum collection. Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 am-6:50 pm. 12,000 lire. Via Ricasoli 60. Phone 055-238-8609. Il Corridoio Vasariano (Vasari Corridor)-This special wing of the Uffizi Gallery was named after the architect who designed it and the Uffizi. The corridor runs from the gallery, across the top of Ponte Vecchio and all the way to Palazzo Pitti on the other side of the river. It's lined with works by a host of artists, including a unique collection of self-portraits dating from the 1300s to the present, one done by Giorgio Vasari himself and others by such artists as Rembrandt and Chagall. The views are also wonderful. The only way to arrange a visit is by booking far in advance. (The tours aren't always available.) To book a tour, call 055-238-8639. La Specola-La Specola, which means observatory, owes its name to a tower for astronomical observations built in 1789. It's a relatively little-known museum, but it offers an entertaining break from Renaissance art. The museum contains a tribute room to Galileo, a natural history section packed with an exotic collection of taxidermied specimens and a section dedicated to anatomical waxworks. This last section is the most memorable, although the models of human corpses, originally designed as teaching models for anatomy students, are somewhat nightmarish. One of the most famous is lo scorticato (the skinned), a model of a large man made to demonstrate the lymph system. Kids, especially, love this stuff (though the models may be too gruesome for younger children). Thursday-Tuesday 9 am-1 pm. 6,000 lire. Via Romana 17. Phone 055-228-8251. Museo degli Argenti-The silver museum is open Sunday-Friday 8:30 am-1:50 pm. (It's closed the second and fourth Sunday and the first and third Monday of the month.) 4,000 lire. In Palazzo Pitti. Phone 055-238-8709. Museo dell'Opera del Duomo-This museum keeps most of the major works of art commissioned for the Baptistery and the Duomo safe from the elements and the crowds. Included in its collection are Michelangelo's Pieta (made for his own tomb) and Donatello's renderings of Mary Magdalene, St. John the Evangelist and the prophets Jeremiah and Abacuc. The original Doors of Paradise from the Baptistery are kept there (six of the 10 reliefs so far; the other four are still being restored), and you can study them at closer range. There's also a stunning silver altar from the Baptistery-a masterpiece of Florentine silversmith art. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6:30 pm, Sunday 8 am-2 pm. 10,000 lire. Piazza Duomo 9 (opposite the back of the Duomo). Phone 055-230-2885. Palatine Gallery-The most important museum in Palazzo Pitti, crammed with works by Titian, Raphael, Rubens, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 am-6:50 pm. 12,000 lire. The same ticket grants admittance into the Royal Apartments, which operate the same hours, but close for maintenance in winter (roughly November-March). Palazzo Pitti. Phone 055-238-8614. Stibbert Museum-This is a great place for kids-lots of knights in armor on horseback and a park that surrounds the building. The museum is the town's legacy from Frederick Stibbert, who amassed some 50,000 pieces in his beautiful estate on the hillside of Montughi. Arms and armor from around the world make up the bulk of the collection, but you'll also see porcelain, furnishings, tapestries, relics from Napoleon I and art from Europe, the Middle East and Pacific Asia. Friday-Wednesday 10 am-1 pm and 3-6 pm (summer); Monday-Wednesday and Friday 10 am-2 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm (winter). 5,000 lire adults, 3,750 lire seniors and youths ages 12-20. Via Stibbert 26 (take Bus 4 from Piazza dell'Unita). Phone 055-475-520. Uffizi Gallery-One of the greatest museums in the world, this collection was originally the private property of the Medici family. When their dynasty was about to die out in the early 1700s, Anna Maria Ludovica de' Medici-the last of the family-determined that the museum would become the eternal birthright of the city of Florence and its citizens. The museum contains the greatest collection of Italian Renaissance painting in the world, starting with pre-Renaissance masters such as Giotto and moving on through Masaccio, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli, Michelangelo and innumerable others. There's also an excellent selection of northern masters: Rubens, Van Dyck and Rembrandt. The museum is being expanded to provide display space for more of the thousands of priceless works currently crammed into storage rooms. So far, the ground floor of the eastern wing and the cafe have been renovated. The cafe now includes a terrace atop the Loggia della Signoria that affords wonderful views of the Piazza, Palazzo Vecchio and the town of Fiesole on the horizon. The works of so many geniuses in one museum can be overpowering. Split up your visit if you have time to do so. Many rooms in the western wing are still closed due to damage from a 1993 car-bomb explosion. Other rooms close on occassion due to "lack of staff," so check the list of room closures at the entrance if you're hoping to see a particular work or works by a particular artist. Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 am-6:50 pm. (The ticket office closes at 6:15 pm.) 12,000 lire. Loggiato degli Uffizi 6. Phone 055-238-8651. SECTION: PARKS AND GARDENS Cascine Park-The largest park in Florence, it was a former game preserve and farm of the Grand Duke's family. The grounds were opened to the public in 1791 by Pietro Leopoldo I, who embellished it with sculptures and fountains. Shelley wrote his Ode to the West Wind while gazing at the Narcissus fountain. Bus 17C stops at Piazzale Kennedy in the center of the park, and on weekends, the park is accessible by a special bus line, designated with the letter P, from Piazzale Vittorio Veneto. Free. SECTION: RELIGIOUS AND SPIRITUAL SITES Santo Spirito (Holy Spirit Church)-This is the most beautiful Renaissance church in Florence. It was Filippo Brunelleschi's last, great work. Daily 8 am-noon and 4-6 pm (closed Wednesday afternoon). Free. Piazza Santo Spirito. SECTION: Shopping The city of Florence has always thrived on its mercantile activity and does today, even though you'll find that Florentine shopkeepers tend to maintain an air of stolid indifference. An important shopping (or window-shopping) destination for any visitor is a stroll over Ponte Vecchio, where jewelers still operate behind fantastic and brilliant display windows. Those with little time in search of leather goods should head for the Santa Croce area. (There's even a selection of leather souvenirs inside Santa Croce church itself, which caters to tourists and is quite pricey.) If you have more time, browse the shops on such streets as Via Calzaioli, Via del Corso, Via Roma and the upmarket Via Strozzi, which leads to Via Tornabuoni. Fashionables will find evidence of major Italian and European designers-Armani, Ferragamo, Versace, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Hermes-along Via Tornabuoni and Via della Vigna Nuova. Clothing boutiques are closed all day Sunday and Monday morning, otherwise opening Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-1 pm and 4-7:30 pm. Other souvenirs: antique prints depicting the city and the surrounding hills, classic posters from a museum shop and wonderful wooden Pinocchio dolls. ANTIQUE STORES A variety of antiques, ranging from the 1600s to art deco, can be found along Via Maggio and Via Santo Spirito, which are both on the south side of the Arno near Ponte Vecchio. Most merchants can arrange shipping. You may catch a glimpse of antique restoration work being carried out in the many workshops hidden in the narrow back streets of this area. On the di qua d'Arno, notable streets with antique shops include Borgo Ognissanti (from Piazza Ognissanti to Piazza Goldoni) and Via de' Fossi. BOOKSTORES Feltrinelli International-Spread over three floors, this tome of a bookstore is mostly dedicated to foreign language titles-English, French and German. The English floor has many works of classic and modern literature, as well as nonfiction texts covering business, politics, cooking and travel. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7:30 pm. Via Cavour 12-20/R. Phone 055-219-524 or 055-292-196. Il Viaggio-This store stocks a comprehensive selection of travel guides and maps, many of which are in English. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm (closed Monday morning October-May and Saturday afternoon June-September). Borgo degli Albizi 41/R. Phone 055-240-489. Marzocco-A stone's throw from the Duomo, this is the largest bookstore in town. Its shelves contain practically every book currently in print in Italy. There's also a large English-language section. The staff is very helpful and knowledgeable. Monday 3-7:30 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 3-7:30 pm. Via de' Martelli 22/R. Phone 055-282-873. Paperback Exchange-Proprietors Emily and Maurizio stock strictly English titles, new and used, fiction and nonfiction, covering most subjects. Many of the expat community trade in all kinds of used books, so you can usually pick up a cheap, well-thumbed treasure. Monday-Friday 9 am-7:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm and 3:30-7:30 pm (only open Monday from mid March to mid November). Via Fiesolana 31/R. Phone 055-247-8154. Seeber-As with other establishments on the elegant Via Tornabuoni, this is a Florentine institution. You'll find books in English, German and French, plus a large art section. Monday-Saturday 9 am-7:30 pm. Via Tornabuoni 70/R. Phone 055-215-697 or 055-282-546. DEPARTMENT STORES La Rinascente-Cosmetics, fashion accessories, lingerie, kitchenware and two floors of classic men's and women's clothing, with some designer labels in the Missoni knitwear section and among Versace's home furnishings. Monday-Saturday 9 am-9 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-8 pm. Piazza della Repubblica. Phone 055-239-8544. MARKETS Mercato delle Cascine-Don't miss this famous Tuesday-morning market, which stretches for about a mile along the banks of the Arno River, from Ponte della Vittoria to Ponte all'Indiano. You'll find clothing, sheets, towels, kitchenware, wicker, lingerie, music, perfume and food on sale, and if the long walk works up an appetite, stop at one of the stalls selling snacks and sandwiches. Mercato di San Lorenzo-Probably the most popular market, it's open all day, every day. This market is much more tourist oriented than the Cascine, because of its location. On sale are clothes, shoes, bags, costume jewelry, scarves, belts and small gift items. You'll also find an indoor fresh produce market, which makes for enjoyable sightseeing even if you're not buying anything. This indoor section is open Monday-Saturday 6 am-2 pm. Via dell'Ariento. Straw Market (Porcellino)-Intricate handmade embroidery and lace, many straw articles and Florentine wood carvings, together with good quality leather goods at reasonable prices. Piazza San Ambrogio. UNIQUE OR UNUSUAL Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella-A shopping adventure where a whole range of soaps, perfumes and herbal cures are to be found in what looks like a medieval apothecary. Via della Scala 16/R. Il Papiro-Its exquisite handmade, marbleized Florentine paper and other stationery make wonderful presents. Daily 10 am-1 pm and 2-7 pm (Via Cavour shop open daily 9 am-7:30 pm). Locations include Piazza del Duomo 24/R, Lungarno Acciaiuoli 42/R and Via Cavour 55/R. Phone 055-215-262 (for all three). Sbigoli Terracotte-Sells its own handmade pottery and offers short, personalized courses in ceramic decoration at its workshop. Via San Egidio 4/R. Phone 055-247-9713. SECTION: Dining Florentines, like other Italians, are very proud of their cuisine. "Italian cooking" as such does not exist; Florentine, Roman and Milanese cuisines do. You might say that the cooking in Florence mirrors the character of the city's inhabitants: no frills, solid, dignified. Typical dishes are the bistecca alla fiorentina, a very thick, high-quality grilled beefsteak, served quite rare, and various rib-sticking, vegetable-based soups served with a drizzle of olive oil on top. Among the soups, two traditional Florentine favorites are pappa al pomodoro (tomato, basil and bread) and ribollita (vegetable soup with bread). Porcini mushrooms are a staple, too, from risotto ai funghi porcini (rice with porcini) to tagliatelle ai funghi porcini (egg noodles with porcini sauce) to porcini alla griglia (grilled porcini caps). It would be a crime not to elaborate on white beans when talking about Tuscan food. These are deliciously prepared, boiled and served with the best olive oil. The classics are white beans cooked with fresh sage and tomato (fagioli all'uccelletto) and white beans with sausage (fagioli e salsiccia). The prosaic sound of these dishes belies their irresistible flavor. Tuscany is undeniably one of the greatest wine-producing regions in the world. Chianti is the most ubiquitous, and quality can vary a lot. Other than a good Chianti, you should not leave without tasting the exquisite Brunello di Montalcino (definitely worth the extra expense) or the more moderately priced, but very good, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Navigating the seas of Florentine dining sites-from the unpronounceable fiaschetteria to the enoteca, from the ristorante to the pizzeria and trattoria-can be as bewildering as it is exhilarating. Once upon a time, the trattoria was an everyday establishment offering simple, hearty fare. Nowadays, because the charm of these places has acquired a price tag, a meal in a well-known trattoria may be just as elegant (and expensive) as one in the more soberly named ristorante. Pizzerias frequently offer a whole gamut of choices, from steak to fish, but it's worth remembering that the pizzeria's specialty is pizza. Among the wonderful but lesser-known offerings are the fiaschetteria and enoteca. These specialized wine dealers frequently serve delicious snacks including typical Tuscan sandwiches made with porchetta (roast pork), soup and crostini (bread spread with a Tuscan version of liver pate or tomatoes and basil or anything you can think of). If you'd like to try a take-out specialty and are not too squeamish, try a tripe sandwich from one of the tripe stands (trippaic) in the markets of San Lorenzo, San Ambrogio or Il Porcellino. Most restaurants open for lunch noon-2:30 pm, with the rush from 1-2 pm. Dinner hours begin at the very earliest at 7 pm (more typically at 7:30 pm) and continue until at least 10 pm. If you want to enjoy your meal at a quiet time, plan to dine between 7:30 and 8 pm. Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay the following for a dinner for one excluding drinks, tax and service: $ = less than 20,000 lire; $$ = 20,000 lire-35,000 lire; $$$ = 35,001 lire-55,000 lire; $$$$ = more than 55,000 lire. FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Cibreo-This eatery boasts an owner-chef (Fabio Picchi) whose unusual and original cuisine attracts fine-tuned palates and a goodly number of noted faces. The first thing you'll notice about the menu is that there is no pasta, which gives you the opportunity to try the minestre (mostly vegetable- and cereal-based soups)-lesser-known and underrated elements of Italian cuisine. Try the polenta all erbe verdi (polenta with green herbs) or choose from among 20 other creative entrees. The bar is a welcoming place to wind down before dinner. Tuesday-Saturday 12:50-2:30 pm and 7-11:15 pm. Reservations required. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Via dei Macci 118/R, Florence. Phone 055-234-1100. Relais Le Jardin-The atmosphere is both refined and intimate at this charming site, thanks to two small, attractive dining rooms-one overlooking the garden. Service is excellent, and most important, the food is of the highest quality. The Tuscan/Italian menu changes every two weeks to accommodate seasonal variations in ingredients. Homemade pasta and desserts are a constant, as is the excellent selection of wines. Daily 12:30-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended for lunch, required for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. In the Regency Hotel in the Piazza d'Azeglio, Florence. Phone 055-245-247. Ristorante-Terrazza Brunelleschi-Located on the top floor of the Grand Hotel Baglioni, across from the Santa Maria Novella station, this restaurant offers a stupendous panorama of Florence. In the summer, you may dine alfresco on the terrace; in the winter, the terrace becomes a glass-enclosed roof garden. The cuisine is good, though not exceptional. Typical Tuscan cooking is highlighted, with such specialties as Tuscan antipasto (a selection of local cold meats and prosciutto) and such splendid desserts as the unique and wicked house specialty, zuppa fiorentina. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Piazza dell'Unita Italiana 6/R, Florence. Phone 055-235-8560. Rose's-Much favored by students and Florence's young professionals, Rose's is a pleasant and conveniently central place (just off boutique-lined Via Tornabuoni) to stop off for a drink, a sandwich or a light pasta lunch. In the evenings, Rose's becomes a sushi bar-one of the very few in Florence. More important, for anyone wanting to tune into the city's nightlife scene, early evening (i.e., 10-11 pm) is when Rose's becomes a stopping-off place for partygoers and clubbers. A drink at the bar will fill you in on what's happening in town that night. Monday-Saturday 7 pm-1 am (sushi bar operates 7-11 pm). $-$$. Most major credit cards. Via Parione 26/R, Florence. Phone 055-286-090. LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES All'Antico Ristoro di' Cambi-This characteristically Florentine trattoria was once an enoteca; hence, the excellent selection of local wines and olive oil. Its location in the heart of the San Frediano quarter adds to the warm, rustic atmosphere. Specialties include porcini mushroom dishes, bistecca alla fiorentina, ribollita and an amazing pappa al pomodoro. Monday-Saturday 12:15-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$$. Visa and MasterCard accepted. Via Sant'Onofrio 1/R, Florence. Phone 055-217-134. Angiolino-The friendly staff and reliably delicious food make this old-style trattoria an unfailingly pleasant place to dine. It's located in the heart of the Oltrarno, halfway between Piazza Santo Spirito and Piazza del Carmine. Among the pastas, the maltagliati all'Angiolino (pasta with tomato, meat and red wine sauce) is an institution, and the wonderfully named gran pezzo ("big piece") is a classic example of Florentine skill in roasting beef, both on the open fire and in the oven. For vegetarians, the fried artichokes, together with other vegetables, are a house specialty. Daily 12:15-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm. Reservations highly recommended for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Via Santo Spirito 36/R, Florence. Phone 055-239-8976. Il Contadino-This small trattoria is fun, friendly and extremely cheap. It's a popular place among Italian workmen away from home, and you may find yourself at a table of sociable southerners. The food is mostly Tuscan, tasty and served quickly. Menu changes daily. Fixed-price menus (15,000 lire for lunch, 16,000 lire for dinner) include a first course, a main course and as much wine as you like. Monday-Saturday noon-2:30 pm and 6-9:30 pm. $. No credit cards. Via Palazzuolo 69-71/R, Florence. Phone 055-238-2673. Mario-A favorite among Florentines and foreigners alike, Mario is more of a theater than a restaurant: The plump ladies in the glass-enclosed kitchen, the friendly service and the crowds sitting at communal tables add up to an intense experience of local color. Its location, in the heart of the colorful San Lorenzo market district, is an added plus. Friday is fish day (the grilled salmon is heavenly). Lunch only: Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm. $$. No credit cards. Via Rosina 2/R, Florence. Phone 055-218-550. Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco-This place is always packed in the evenings, with good reason: Excellent Tuscan cuisine is complemented by an intimate yet unpretentious atmosphere. Don't miss the strozzapreti (literally, "priest chokers"), light and delicate spinach dumplings. For the adventurous, we recommend homemade egg noodles (pappardelle) in wild boar sauce (the cinghiale of the restaurant's name). Desserts are all homemade, including the decadent mascarpone cream served with a buttery biscuit. The lunch special is an excellent deal at 15,000 lire (not offered on Sunday). Thursday-Monday noon-2:30 pm and 7-10:30 pm. Reservations required. $-$$$. No credit cards. Borgo San Jacopo 43/R, Florence. Phone 055-215-706. Sostanza-This tiny trattoria has a long history, as you might guess from the faded photos of prominent guests that cover the walls. Nothing could be less pretentious than the atmosphere and the country-style home cooking. Try the vegetable soup (zuppa alla paesana), the homemade tortellini (filled pasta) and the boiled meats. This trattoria attracts a young, lively international clientele. Monday-Friday 12:30-2:10 pm and 7:30-9:45 pm. Closed in August. Reservations highly recommended for dinner. $$$. No credit cards. Via del Porcellana 25/R, Florence. Phone 055-212-691. ASIAN Saigon-Florence's only Vietnamese restaurant is worth the 15-minute walk from the center if you've had your fill of Florentine fare. It's tastefully furnished and has a large outdoor dining area in summer. Dishes are fairly simple, with lots of fresh vegetables, and frying is kept to a minimum. Tuesday-Sunday noon-3 pm and 7:30-midnight. $$. Visa only. Via del Ponte alle Mosse 2-8/R, Florence. Phone 055-350-541. CAFES AND TEA ROOMS The annoying thing about cafes in the center of Florence is that either they have no tables at which to sit down or you have to pay double the price to do so. There is, however, a small number of comfy cafes where you can eat, drink and talk at leisure. Although Italians don't usually bother with breakfast (apart from a cappuccino and a brioche), these places offer an array of sandwiches, savory snacks, cakes, tea and coffee. Caffetteria Piansa-Monday-Saturday 7:30 am-8:30 pm. $. No credit cards. Borgo Pinti 18/R, Florence. Phone 055-234-2362. La Latteria-Daily 8 am-midnight. $. No credit cards. Via degli Alfani 39/R, Florence. Phone 055-247-8878. ITALIAN (INCLUDING PIZZERIAS) Ristorante Santa Lucia-The pasta and pizza more than compensate for the lack of atmosphere, the somewhat rude service and the 15-minute walk from the center of town. Naples is the birthplace of pizza, and this restaurant is owned and operated by a Neapolitan family who produce what is arguably the best pizza in town. Among the house specialties, the rigatoni alla Sorrentino (short pasta with mozzarella cheese, fresh tomato and basil) and polpo alla Luciana (octopus slow-cooked with herbs and tomato) are outstanding. Thursday-Tuesday 7:30 pm-1 am. Reservations recommended, especially on weekends. $$. No credit cards. Via Ponte alle Mosse 102/R, Florence. Phone 055-353-255. Ristorante Vinesio-This Oltrarno restaurant offers a chance to experience the cuisine from another region of Italy-that of Puglia. It serves fresh produce shipped from the south. Especially recommended is the antipasto Vinesio, which includes a hearty selection of grilled vegetables and burata, a melt-in-your-mouth fiordilatte (fresh milk cheese). Of the pasta dishes, try the Orecchiette alla Barese (pasta shells with a light meat sauce), topped with seasoned ricotta cheese. Plenty of vegetarian dishes are served. Fresh fish is served Friday and Saturday. Don't overlook the full-bodied rose wines-Puglia produces some of the best rosati in the country. Tuesday-Sunday 7:30-11 pm. Starting September 2000, lunch Tuesday-Sunday 12:30-2:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Borgo San Frediano 145/R, Florence. Phone 055-223-449. MIDDLE EASTERN Amon-If you want a quick but filling sandwich, this Egyptian takeout place is central (near Piazza Santa Maria Novella) and cheap. Tasty veal kebabs, felafel and hummus are served in pita bread with fresh salad. Monday-Saturday noon-3 pm and 6-11 pm. $. No credit cards. Via Palazzuolo 26-28/R, Florence. Phone 055-293-146. VEGETARIAN Il Vegetariano-Florence's first vegetarian restaurant has the classic, veggie restaurant feel: You could be in San Francisco or New York's Greenwich Village, circa 1970-something. Go to the counter and make your menu choices from the internationally inspired selections. The menu changes daily but always includes a vegan dish. Pasta, soup, couscous, quiches, salads, seitan, tofu. Also organic beer, wine and fruit juice and a disorienting number of herbal teas. Don't miss the desserts. Smoke-free room (a rarity for Italy) and summer dining in the garden. Tuesday-Friday 12:30-2:30 pm and 7:30-10:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7:30-10:30 pm. $$. No credit cards. Via delle Ruote 30/R, Florence. Phone 055-475-030. SECTION: Nightlife Early summer evenings are tranquil as Florentines and visitors alike stroll the narrow streets or sip cappuccino and iced tea in the piazzas. When chilly evenings begin to set in, an attractive option is a pint of draft Guinness in one of the town's growing number of Irish pubs. Citta di Firenze is an elegant bar and live-music venueToward midnight the late-night birds start heading for their favorite hot spots. La Dolce Vita is a bit more glamorous, and Montecarla Club caters to an alternative crowd. For dancing, check out Meccano or Villa Kasar. BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS Cantinetta dei Verrazzano-This elegant enoteca was created by the family that owns the Castello da Verrazzano, a well-known Chianti producer. The atmosphere is warm and charming-terra-cotta floors, marble counters and dark wood furnishings. The location-a stone's throw from Palazzo Vecchio and the Duomo-couldn't be better. Make a light lunch or dinner out of a good wine and a warm focaccia baked on the premises with thyme and pecorino (sheep's cheese) or porcini mushrooms. Monday-Saturday 8 am-9 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Via dei Tavolini 18-20/R, Florence. Phone 055-268-590. Casa del Vino-This oldest enoteca in Florence was founded in 1890. Wood and marble furnishings and old-fashioned ambience are part of the charm of this family-run establishment. Thirty red and white wines are available for tasting, and 800 different labels are sold. Don't expect a sit-down meal there: Just lean on the counter, enjoy your wine and nibble on delicious, crusty sandwiches with special Tuscan deli meats, salmon, liver or tuna. Monday-Friday 9 am-2 pm and 4:30-8 pm, Saturday 9 am-2 pm. $. Most major credit cards. Via dell'Ariento 16/R, Florence. Phone 055-215-609. Chequers Pub-One of the largest pubs in town, it sells great beer and typical pub food, including fish-and-chips and hot dogs. Nightly 6 pm-1:30 am (Friday and Saturday to 2:30 am). Via della Scala 7-9/R. Phone 055-287-588. Citta di Firenze-This elegant, traditional U.S.-style bar is good for drinks, dinner and more drinks accompanied by live music. Tuesday-Sunday from 7 pm; dinner served until 11 pm (expensive!). Lungarno Corsini 4/R. Phone 055-217-706. Fuori Porta-This unobtrusive and cozy wine bar is hidden away in a very untouristy area on the south side of the Arno. White, red and dessert wines are sold by the glass. You can drop in for a quick drink or make an evening of it, tasting wines from every wine-producing region of Italy or, if you prefer, from France or the U.S. A wide range of sandwiches, crostini and primi (pasta dishes) are also available. You can purchase bottles of wine and have them shipped from there. Monday-Saturday 12:30-3:30 pm and 7 pm-1 am. Via del Monte alle Croci 10/R. Phone 055-234-2483. La Dolce Vita-This is the place to be seen. It's favored by the beautiful people who, on summer evenings, spill out into the piazza with their drinks. Nightly 5 pm-1:30 am in the winter, 10 am-1:30 am in the summer. Open later on weekends. Piazza del Carmine 6/R. Phone 055-284-595. Montecarla Club-Leopard-print sofas and plastic pythons attract the alternative crowd. Its exotic decor is complemented by tropical cocktails and soft background music. Nightly 10 pm-2 am. Via dei Bardi 2/R. Phone 055-234-0259. DANCE CLUBS/NIGHTCLUBS Meccano-This Florence institution is still extremely popular. After midnight a young crowd gathers to dance inside, outside, upstairs and downstairs. Every night there's a different type of music or theme. Near Cascine Park, in Piazzale delle Cascine. Villa Kasar-There's a chic, upscale dress code and commercial disco music. Thursday-Sunday 11 pm-4 am. Lungarno Colombo 23/R. Phone 055-676-912. LIVE MUSIC Caffe Girasol-Run by a young Brazilian, this is one of the most exclusive Latin bars in town. It offers live entertainment and tropical cocktails. Expect Latin and bossa nova sounds. Tuesday-Sunday 8 pm-2:30 am. Via del Romito 1/R. Phone 055-474-948. Genesi-Right in the center of town, next to the Duomo, Genesi features decor inspired by Native American culture and the Wild West. Live music every night, mainly country. A wide variety of food is available, including some Tex-Mex dishes. Tuesday-Sunday 8 pm-2 am. Piazza del Duomo 20/R. Phone 055-287-247. Jazz Club-Jazz musicians and singers perform almost every night of the week, but on Friday you'll find the top performers. Tuesdays are jamming sessions, and often on Wednesdays, rare and unusual films are given a live musical accompaniment. Beer, cocktails and a selection of table games to play between acts. A mandatory year's membership costs 10,000 lire. Tuesday-Sunday from 9:30 pm. Via Nuova de' Caccini 3/R. Phone 055-247-9700. Pongo-One of the hot spots in Florentine nightlife. Pongo has a very lively, hip atmosphere, with frequent live performances (mainly rock). Some early-evening jazz concerts, too. Thursday-Saturday 10:30 pm-4 am. Via Verdi 57/R. Phone 055-234-7880. INTRODUCTION | SIGHTSEEING | SHOPPING | DINING | NIGHTLIFE | RECREATION WHERE TO STAY | CALENDAR | PICK ANOTHER CITY Recreation Because the historical center of Florence is compact, there's little room allowed for recreation, so you'll need to head for the outskirts to find many of the relaxing (or strenuous) activities you might be looking for. BICYCLING Although locals do use bikes for transport, they're hardened to the dense and harrowing traffic. We recommend that cycling by visitors be confined to that part of Cascine Park closed to traffic. Bike Italy-If you're fed up with pavement and would like to get out into beautiful Tuscany for a day, we recommend this small company run by a personable guide from the U.S., Bill Dillon. You are provided with a bike, helmet and guide. Your ride in the nearby countryside includes a stop at a cantina, where you can taste local wine and olive oil. Lunch at a trattoria is also included in the very reasonable price. Cost for a day tour: 95,000 lire. And if you feel like something less strenuous, you can opt for a walking tour, costing 85,000 lire. Phone 055-234-2371. http://www.bikeitaly.com. Florence by Bike-Rents bicycles. Via della Scala 12/R. GOLF To get to the golf courses closest to Florence, you'll need a car-they are all a good hour's drive from the city. Golf is not a very popular sport in Italy, and you may find these sites quite expensive. Golf Dell'Ugolino-A prestigious 18-hole course just outside Florence. It's open year round. Via Chiantigiana 3, Grassina. Phone 055-230-1009 or 055-230-1085. Poggio dei Medici Golf & Country Club-You need proof of membership in a golf club in the U.S. or elsewhere. Via San Gavino 27, Scarperia. Phone 055-843-0436. HEALTH CLUBS Body's Gym-Circuit training, bodybuilding, karate, aerobics and stretching classes, as well as lessons in South American dance. Monday-Friday 8:30 am-10:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-8 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-12:30 pm. A month's membership costs 110,000 lire. No day rate. Via L. Bruni 11/R. Phone 055-688-117. Centro Yoga-Courses for all levels. A course of 10 lessons, or one month's membership, will cost 90,000 lire, plus an initial enrollment fee of 40,000 lire. No day rate. Via dei Bardi 5/R. Phone 055-234-2703. Ricciardi-Workout equipment, bodybuilding, aerobics classes and saunas. Monday-Friday 9 am-10 pm, Saturday 9 am-6 pm. 112,000 lire for one month's membership. No day rate. Borgo Pinti 75/R. Phone 055-247-8444. HIKING AND WALKING There are lots of great walks along the country roads of the hillside. One that we really enjoy is along the Costa San Giorgio. Start along that street at Piazza Santa Felicita, across from Ponte Vecchio. After heading up to Forte di Belvedere, take Via di San Leonardo to Viale Galilei. From there you have two options: head to the right, and the Viale winds down to Porta Romana (the name of the street will change to Viale Machiavelli on route); or head to the left and you'll come to Piazzale Michelangelo, from which you can get back to town either by the travertine steps at the end of Viale Galilei which lead to San Niccolo (St. Nicholas' city gate and church) or by the ramps that lead from the Piazzale down to the riverside. (Returning by the steps is quickest.) Club Alpino Italiano (CAI)-This trekking club organizes daylong hikes through the Chianti countryside and Tuscan hills. Prices vary, depending on where they're planning to hike, but they'll let you know the pickup points and times of departure (by coach) from the town center. It's a wonderful way to exercise and take in the landscape at the same time. Skiing trips are organized in winter. Closed in August. Via dello Studio 5/R. Phone 055-239-8580. JOGGING It's not advisable to jog in the streets of Florence. They are very narrow and the road surfaces are very uneven. Determined joggers head to Viali dei Colli or Cascine Park (but it's not safe to jog in Cascine after dark). Try for hours when there's less traffic-that is, 6-7 am, 1:30-2:30 pm or in the evening. SWIMMING Costoli-This municipal pool is the city's largest and most crowded. In summer, it's uncovered. There's also a shallow pool for children. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 10,000 lire adults, 7,000 lire seniors and children ages 7-14. On Viale Paoli (across from the stadium). Phone 055-623-6027 or 055-624-1274. The Indoor Club-There's a gym and sauna in addition to the pool. Monday-Saturday 10 am-11 pm. Via Bardazzi 15/R. Phone 055-430-275 or 055-430-703. TENNIS AND RACQUET SPORTS Unfortunately, you won't find many open-air tennis courts in Florence itself (for the usual reason: lack of space), although there are many in the surrounding towns. UISP-This tennis club has seven courts, and it's especially nice during summer. You'll need to take Bus 4 from the train station and get off at Il Poggetto stop. Monday-Friday 8 am-11:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-7 pm. Enrollment fee of 30,000 lire, plus 17,000 lire per hour. Via M Mercati 24/R. Phone 055-484-465. ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES Societa Canottieri di Firenze-This rowing club sells monthly memberships for 120,000 lire. To enroll, you need two passport-size photos and a medical certificate testifying to your fitness (or proof that you have health insurance). Rowing times: Monday-Saturday 8 am-8 pm, Sunday 8 am-1 pm. Lungarno de' Medici 8/R. Phone 055-282-130. SECTION: Where to Stay Because Florence is one of the most visited cities in Italy, usually not omitted even on a whistle-stop tour, advance booking-before your trip-is highly recommended. Note that most hotels do not have parking areas, but rather agreements with private garages, with a charge of perhaps 35,000 lire per day, on average. Below is a sampling of hotels; it is not intended to be a comprehensive list. Expect to pay the following for a single room: $ = less than 160,000 lire; $$ = 160,000 lire-250,000 lire; $$$ = 250,001 lire-370,000 lire; $$$$ = more than 370,000 lire. AIRPORT AREA Nord Florence Hotel-A modern and efficient hotel with professional service. Don't expect charm or local color-just a well-managed, clean airport hotel. A five-minute drive from the A1 highway exit and the airport, it has its own parking area, a rarity in Florence. (It's 25 minutes by public bus from the center of the city.) Gym and sauna are available. Continental breakfast is included. Reservations strongly recommended. $$. Via Francesco Baracca 199A, Florence. Phone 055-43-11-51. Fax 055-43-12-02. CITY Albani Hotel-This newly renovated hotel is tastefully furnished (although not in a characteristically Florentine fashion), clean and well managed, and it's within easy walking distance of the major attractions. The location is extremely convenient, both for the train station and for the Palazzo dei Congressi or Fortezza da Basso, where most major international meetings and conferences are held. Continental breakfast is included. Garage parking for 35,000 lire per day. Reserve well in advance. $$$. Via Fiume 12, Florence. Phone 055-26-030. Fax 055-21-10-45. Helvetia & Bristol Hotel-As centrally located as you could wish, this five-star gem is one of the top hotels in Florence. It's furnished largely with antiques, and no two rooms are alike. Don't be surprised if you find yourself in a room adorned with antique tapestries or a collection of old fans, lit by 19th-century chandeliers from the glass workshops of Murano. This place offers all the amenities of a luxury hotel. You can relax in a hot tub in a marble bathroom and dine at the hotel's Tuscan-cuisine restaurant. Continental breakfast is included. $$$$. Via de Pescioni 2, Florence. Phone 055-28-78-14. Fax 055-288353. Hermitage Pension Hotel-This structure was a tower in medieval times. It's situated very near the Ponte Vecchio, and six of the rooms have a view of Florentine rooftops and the Arno. Not surprisingly, its quaint elegance makes this hotel a favorite, and reservations two to three months before arrival are necessary; for the rooms with a river view, book five to six months ahead. All the rooms are well appointed and have satellite TV. There are no single rooms. The staff is professional and unfailingly pleasant. The hotel has a panoramic terrace and several small, intimate common areas. Continental breakfast included. 20% discount 15 November-1 March. $$$. Vicolo Marzio 1, Florence. Phone 055-287216. Fax 055-212208. Hotel Accademia-This hotel, recently refurbished and upgraded, is a true find. Step inside this two-star establishment and admire the stained-glass French doors and the breakfast room with its high ceilings and wood beams. In the simply decorated rooms are ensuite baths, satellite TV, phones and air-conditioning. Everything about the Accademia is equivalent to or better than what you frequently find at a much higher price, starting with that full buffet breakfast. Ace location is near the Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon. Most important, family members who own and operate this hotel are charming and knowledgeable. Of course, good deals like this do not go unnoticed: Book well ahead for Christmas, Easter, May-June and September-October stays. $. Piazza dell'Accademia di San Luca 75, Rome. Phone 06-678-6705. Fax 06-678-5897. Hotel Il Guelfo Bianco-A small hotel very conveniently located halfway between the Duomo and Piazza San Marco and within easy walking distance of other major attractions. The building, which dates back to the 1600s, has been completely modernized and restored, with great attention to detail. Traditional furnishings and several rooms with wood beams and other architectural details add up to a comfortable yet characteristically Florentine atmosphere. All rooms have satellite TV and a personal safe. Continental breakfast is included. Rates go down slightly in August. $$. Via Cavour 29, Florence. Phone 055-28-83-30. Fax 055-29-52-03. Hotel Porta Faenza-This newly renovated hotel offers all comforts while maintaining a characteristic Florentine ambience. Great attention has been paid to interior design: Rooms are charmingly furnished with antiques. The location is convenient to the train station as well as to major attractions. Amenities revealing the Lelli family's decades of experience with visitors from abroad include an unusually ample buffet breakfast. Garage parking for 30,000 lire per day. $$$. Via Faenza 77, Florence. Phone 055-28-41-19. Fax 055-21-01-01. Morandi Alla Crocetta Hotel-Consisting of just 10 rooms (eight doubles and two singles), the Morandi alla Crocetta was once an ancient convent. It conveys an air of utter silence and tranquillity when you first enter, although its unprepossessing entrance belies its museumlike aesthetics. Rooms contain restored frescoes and arches, precious paintings and furniture. This hotel is owned by an English woman and her family, and the staff includes other personable native English speakers. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, one of the loveliest squares in Florence, is nearby, as are most major attractions. Book at least six months ahead. $. Via Laura 50, Florence. Phone 055-234-4747. Fax 055-248-0954. San Remo Hotel-If you're looking for a room with a view, this is it. The San Remo is right on the Arno, and several rooms offer an exquisite panoramic view of the river. This location is also within easy walking distance of major attractions and particularly close to the Uffizi and Ponte Vecchio. The atmosphere is typically Florentine, thanks to the characteristic Tuscan furnishings. The buffet breakfast, for example, is served in a 16th-century vaulted-ceilinged room. Prices decrease slightly in low season (November-March and August). Reserve far ahead if you plan to stay April-October. $$. Lungarno Serristori 13, Florence. Phone 055-234-2823. Fax 055-234-2269. SUBURBAN Grand Hotel Villa Cora-Villa Cora is a luxury hotel a bit outside the city center. This 19th-century villa, complete with frescoed ceilings and antique furnishings, is surrounded by its own garden with a pool. To compensate for the distance from the center (it's a five- to 10-minute ride or a 20-minute walk), the hotel arranges continuous minivan or limousine service into the heart of Florence 9 am-6 pm daily, at no extra charge to guests. Ample free parking on the grounds. Breakfast is a full buffet. Reserve six months ahead for May, June, September and October stays. $$$$. Viale Machiavelli 18-20, Florence. Phone 055-229-8451. Fax 055-22-90-86. Hotel Classic-If you want to be in the greenbelt surrounding the city without spending a fortune, this is the hotel for you, especially if you're bringing a car. Located in its own quiet, private garden, the Classic is eminently affordable, while at the same time comfortable, clean and pleasant. Interiors are attractive, and you can park at no extra cost. Access to the center of town is a 20-minute walk or a brief bus ride. Continental breakfast is included. $. Viale Machiavelli 25, Florence. Phone 055-229-351. Fax 055-229-353. Regency Hotel-This luxury hotel is located on a beautiful, tree-filled square surrounded by large, elegant homes of architectural distinction. Although it's in a peaceful (for Florence), green space, it's quite walkable to attractions. The atmosphere is welcoming and elegant, and the service is excellent. Prices are slightly lower in August and December and during low season (1 January-15 March). $$$$. Piazza Massimo d'Azeglio 3, Florence. Phone 055-24-52-47. Fax 055-234-6735. SECTION: Florence Calendar INTRODUCTION Florence is a visual feast for the visitor, with its distinctive architecture and world-famous sculpture and paintings. In addition to their magnificent permanent collections, the Uffizi Gallery, the Bargello Museum and other sites occasionally add traveling exhibitions to their treasure-houses. Florence also provides a feast of musical and dance performances-only a few of which are represented in the listings below. If you dial any of the Florence numbers listed below from outside Italy, you must first dial your country's international access code, then Italy's country code, 39, and Florence's city code (now with a zero preceding), 055. Even if you're calling from within Florence, you must now dial the city code, 055, before the rest of the (four- to eight-digit) phone numbers. We've included the city codes in the phone numbers listed in this calendar. Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed. NOVEMBER 2000 1 Nov-All Saints' Day. Public holiday. 2, 3, 5 Nov-Opera. Cavalleria Rusticana and Pagliacci. Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16. Tickets: 055-211-158. Information: http://www.maggiofiorentino.com. Concludes 5 Nov. 15-19 Nov-Dance. Romeo and Juliet. Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16. Tickets: 055-211-158. Information: http://www.maggiofiorentino.com. 22 Nov-Concert. Ivor Bolton conducts the Maggio Musicale Orchestra in Bach's Mass in C Minor. Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16. Tickets: 055-211-158. Information: http://www.maggiofiorentino.com. 25 Nov-Concert. Filarmonica di Firenze performs a free concert in honor of the Feast of St. Cecilia. For time and location, call 0338-845-8117. 26 Nov-Florence Marathon. Long-distance runners take to the streets of Florence. Information: 055-572-885. Late November-Festival dei Populi. A festival of social documentary films. For information, call 055-294-353. Continues through early December. Throughout November-Concerts. Amici della Musica (Friends of Music) presents concerts at the Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola. For information, phone 055-608-420. Continues through late April 2001. Throughout November-Art Exhibit. An interactive exhibit accompanies the ongoing restoration of Cellini's bronze sculpture Perseus. Uffizi Gallery, Loggiato degli Uffizi 6. Phone 055-23885. Continues through 30 Dec. Throughout November-Exhibit. The Museo di San Marco presents the results of restoration work on its library and Greek Room. Piazza San Marco. Phone 055-238-8608. Continues through 15 Dec. DECEMBER 2000 Early December-Festival dei Populi. A festival of social documentary films. For information, call 055-294-353. Concludes early December. 1-15 Dec-Exhibit. The Museo di San Marco presents the results of restoration work on its library and Greek Room. Piazza San Marco. Phone 055-238-8608. Concludes 15 Dec. 1-30 Dec-Art Exhibit. An interactive exhibit accompanies the ongoing restoration of Cellini's bronze sculpture Perseus. Uffizi Gallery, Loggiato degli Uffizi 6. Phone 055-23885. Concludes 30 Dec. 8 Dec-Feast of the Immaculate Conception. Public holiday. 10, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19, 20 Dec-Opera. Bellini's La Sonnambula. Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16. Tickets: 055-211-158. Information: http://www.maggiofiorentino.com. 17 Dec-Concert. Filarmonica di Firenze performs a Christmas concert. For time and location, call 0338-845-8117. 23, 24, 27, 28, 29, 30 Dec-Dance. Nuova Creazione, choreographed by Massimo Moricone. Teatro Comunale, Corso Italia 16. Tickets: 055-211-158. Information: http://www.maggiofiorentino.com. 25 Dec-Christmas. Public holiday. 26 Dec-St. Stephen's Day. Public holiday. Throughout December-Concerts. Amici della Musica (Friends of Music) presents concerts at the Teatro della Pergola, Via della Pergola. For information, phone 055-608-420. Continues through late April 2001.