INTRODUCTION People go to this cosmopolitan city for many reasons - it's a capital of commerce, culture and fun. Amsterdam is nourished by a wealth of museums, concert halls, and avant-garde theater and dance venues, and its relaxed and tolerant attitudes draw those looking for a creative, anything-goes atmosphere. Large numbers of beautiful tree-lined canals are bordered by streets with rows of narrow, gabled houses and 17th-century warehouses, making Amsterdam an architectural treasure-house. At three-quarters of a million inhabitants, Amsterdam is much smaller (but no less interesting) than many European capitals, and much of the city center can be comfortably explored on foot. SECTION: Sightseeing After you've soaked in the general atmosphere you can begin your specific sightseeing. The broad plaza outside Centraal Station is a good place to begin a tour - you're likely to end up there anyway at some point during your stay. A walk down Damrak will take you to Dam Square, site of the Royal Palace and National Monument. If you turn toward the National Monument and continue walking, you'll end up in the colorful Red-Light District. This is the oldest part of the city, and a neighborhood where quaintness mingles with vice. While there you could also make your way north to the Oude Kerk, the city's oldest church, or you could continue walking to the southeast and see the Rembrandthuis, the Portuguese Synagogue and the Jewish Historical Museum. If you turn toward the Royal Palace at Dam Square and continue walking you'll be headed in the general direction of the Anne Frank House on Prinsengracht. Also nearby is the Westerkerk, where Rembrandt is buried. Jordaan, one of the most picturesque districts of Amsterdam, is just beyond the canal. Other areas worth exploring are around Leidseplein and Muntplein, which is near the Flower Market. The must-see museum is the Rijksmuseum. It contains many famous Old Master paintings, including The Night Watch by Rembrandt. Nearby are two excellent modern and contemporary art museums: the Van Gogh Museum and the Stedelijk Museum. Amsterdam also has a handful of bizarre museums guaranteed to generate interest when you tell your traveler's tales: Both sex and marijuana are explored in their very own museums. CASINOS Holland Casino - One of Europe's largest, it is an upscale, dressy scene (suit and tie required for men). Identification required. The minimum age is 18. Admission fl 7.50. Daily 1:30 pm-3 am. Across from Leidseplein, in the Lido theater complex on the water. Phone 521-1111. LANDMARKS AND HISTORIC SITES Dam Square - Site of the National Monument honoring the dead of World War II, the Royal Palace, Nieuwe Kerk (where Queen Beatrix was crowned; it hosts temporary exhibits and organ concerts) and the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. A lively meeting place for tourists, shoppers, businessmen, street performers, artists and children feeding pigeons. At the south end of Damrak at the center of the city. Koninklijk Paleis - The 17th-century Royal Palace on Dam Square was originally Amsterdam's city hall and became a royal palace by order of Louis Napoleon in 1808. The many impressive rooms now shelter Empire-style furniture and valuable paintings by followers of Rembrandt. Open daily 12:30-4:30 pm. Admission fl 7. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 147, phone 624-8698. Leidseplein - This square and its surrounding area are chock full of cafes, theaters, nightclubs, restaurants and bars. "Smoking cafes," where marijuana and hashish are sold and smoked, can be found there, as well as in other parts the city. On the west side of the Old Town not far from the Rijksmuseum. Muntplein - Site of the 17th-century Mint Tower, a well-known landmark overlooking the Amstel River. Another feature of this area is the Flower Market, and a long block west is Rembrandtplein, with one of Amsterdam's largest collections of theaters and cafes. MUSEUMS The VVV tourist information office and most museums sell a Museumjaarkaart, which provides entry to most museums in the Netherlands for one year. It costs fl 55 for adults and fl 25 for those under age 25. The card is valid only when signed and with a photo attached. Many museums have an English-language audiocassette guide that can be borrowed free. Some also have tours in English. Amsterdams Historisch Museum - The Amsterdam Historical Museum is housed in a former orphanage. It painstakingly and artistically re-creates the life of the city from 1275 to World War II and beyond, with many special exhibits linking past and present. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, weekends 11 am-5 pm. Admission is fl 11 adults, fl 8.25 seniors, fl 5.50 children ages 7-16, free for children under age 7. Kalverstraat 92, phone 523-1822. Anne Frank Huis - Memorial to the famed, doomed diarist, her family and four other Jews who hid from the Nazis in this tiny annex from 1942-1944. Now it displays sections of Anne Frank's diary, historical photographs and exhibits about racism and antisemitism. The building was never designed for the huge numbers of visitors it receives today, and we recommend you get in line half an hour before it opens to avoid the largest crowds. Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm (extended to 7 pm daily June-August). Admission is fl 10 adults, fl 5 children ages 10-17, free for children under age 10. Prinsengracht 263, phone 556-7100. Cobra Museum Voor Moderne Kunst - Works by an international group of experimental artists in the postwar revolutionary movement based in Copenhagen, Brussels and Amsterdam. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-5 pm. Admission fl 7.50 adults, fl 3.50 children. Sandburgplein 1-3, Amstelveen, phone 547-5050. Erotic Museum - Housed in a monumental five-storied, 18th-century building in the Red-Light District. It exhibits collections of erotic art from different cultures and periods in history. Daily 11 pm-1 am, Saturday till 2 am. Admission fl 5. Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54, phone 624-7303. The Holland Experience - Houses a permanent exhibit about the Netherlands and what it's famous for - windmills, tulips, canals. The rooms themselves are infused with the smell of flowers. Daily 10 am-5:30 pm. Admission is fl 17.50 adults, fl 15 seniors and children. Combination ticket with the Rembrandthuis next door costs fl 21.50 adults, fl 18.50 seniors and children. Jodenbreestraat 8-10, phone 422-2233. Joods Historisch Museum - The Jewish Historical Museum is located in the old Jewish Quarter in a restored synagogue and modern complex. It contains revered artifacts and chronicles Jewish culture, religion and history in the Netherlands. Daily 11 am-5 pm. Admission is fl 8 adults, fl 2 children. Jonas Daniel Meyerplein 2-4, phone 626-9945. Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum - This display includes representations of world-famous figures as well as many heroes from Dutch history. Scenes from famous Dutch paintings are also replicated. Open 10 am-5 pm (in July and August 9:30 am-7:30 pm). Admission is fl 18.50 adults; fl 15 children to age 14; special rates for two adults with two or three children. Dam 20, phone 622-9949. Marijuana Museum - The display distinguishes between various types of plants and shows how to cultivate them. Daily 11 am-10 pm. Admission fl 8. On Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148, in the Red-Light District, phone 623-5961. Nederlands Scheepvaart Museum - A major maritime museum housed in one of the grand headquarters of the Dutch East India Company. It includes a full-scale replica of an 18th-century East India Company ship. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Closed Monday except when it's a holiday. Admission fl 14.50 adults, fl 12.50 seniors, fl 8 children. Kattenburgerplein 1, phone 523-2222. newMetropolis - A hands-on science center with interactive exhibits about technology, industry, energy, humans and other subjects. A roof terrace and self-service restaurant - open to 11 pm - can be reached from the street by a pedestrian ramp, affording one of the best views of the city. Daily 10 am-6 pm, Friday and Saturday till 9 pm. Admission is fl 20 adults, fl 15 children ages 4-16. Admission evenings is fl 12.50. Oosterdok 2 (a short walk from Centraal Station), phone 531-3233 or 0900-919-1100. Reflex Miniature Museum - Known as the "smallest museum in the world." It contains exhibits of Cobra and other modern art. Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-6 pm. Free admission. Meibergdreef 9, phone 627-2832. Rembrandthuis - The artist lived in this house 1639-1660. It contains many of his etchings. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. Admission is fl 12.50 adults, fl 7.50 children. Combination ticket with The Holland Experience next door costs fl 21.50 adults, fl 18.50 seniors and children. Jodenbreestraat 4-6, phone 624-9486. Rijksmuseum - A vast complex housing Dutch masterpieces, including works by Rembrandt (The Night Watch), Vermeer and Frans Hals as well as paintings and artifacts from other European and Asian cultures. An exhibit next to the hall where The Night Watch hangs explains the history of that painting in photographs and diagrams. Permanent and changing exhibits. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Admission is fl 15 adults, fl 7.50 children ages 7-17, free for children under age 7. Stadhouderskade 42, phone 674-7000. Stedelijk Museum - A wide-ranging collection of modern Dutch paintings and the city's most important venue for contemporary art exhibitions. Open summers daily 10 am-6 pm, winters daily 11 am-5 pm. Admission fl 9 adults, fl 4.50 children ages 7-16, free for those under age 7. Paulus Potterstraat 13, phone 573-2911. Theater Museum - An interesting diversion, not only for the old stage sets and sound-effects machines that visitors are invited to manipulate, but also for the two 17th-century canal houses in which the museum is located. The museum cafe is also nice. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-5 pm, Saturday 1-5 pm. Admission fl 5. Herengracht 168, phone 623-5104. Tropenmuseum - This museum of the tropics is an ethnographic treasure-house, illuminating the daily lives of peoples of Africa, Asia, the Middle East and Latin America. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday noon-5 pm. Admission fl 12.50 adults, fl 7.50 children, children under age 5 free. Linnaeusstraat 2, phone 568-8215. Van Gogh Museum - A permanent display of hundreds of the artist's paintings and drawings, as well as the famed correspondence between Vincent van Gogh and his brother Theo. Paulus Potterstraat 7, phone 570-5200. Woonbootmuseum - The Houseboat Museum permits tourists to see how people live on the 2,000 boats lining the canals. The Hendrika Maria, from 1914, is typical of the industrial river barges rebuilt as dwellings and furnished as homes. There's a slide show and models of other boats. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. Admission is fl 3.75 adults, fl 2.50 children. Prinsengracht, opposite No. 296, near Elandsgracht, phone 427-0750. NEIGHBORHOODS AND DISTRICTS Jordaan - This trendy quarter is 10 minutes from Leidseplein. Built in the 1700s for the working class, it is now an enclave of boutiques, restaurants and artists lofts. The smaller side canals and streets are among the most picturesque in Europe. Red-Light District - The oldest part of the city and known as the Walletjes because the old city walls were located there. This crowded, colorful neighborhood is a big tourist attraction, with its proliferation of sex shops along narrow streets and canals. Prostitutes pose in neon-lit windows, exhibiting their wares (even though prostitution is technically illegal in the Netherlands). One way to explore the buildings and monuments of the district is to join a guided tour (one operator is Janot Entertainment, phone 623-1834; the cost is fl 25 for a 90-minute tour). If you're visiting the Walletjes out of simple curiosity, you'll probably feel more comfortable going during the day. Taking pictures is taboo, and ignore any street drug dealers. If you go in the evening, avoid deserted streets. East of Dam Square. SECTION: PARKS AND GARDENS Hortus Botanicus - Amsterdam's botanical garden is operated by the University of Amsterdam. It's rather small but is conveniently located between the Jewish Historical Museum and Artis Zoo. Open weekdays 9 am-4 pm, weekends 11 am-4 pm. Admission is fl 7.50 adults, fl 4.50 children. Plantage Middenlaan 2a (Tram 7, 9, 14 from Centraal Station), phone 625-8411 (the recording is in Dutch). Vondelpark - A few blocks west of the Rijksmuseum and south of Leidseplein, it has meandering ponds and paths popular with joggers. During the 1960s this was a famous meeting place for hippies from all over the world, and there's still lots of free, youth-oriented entertainment on Saturday afternoons in summer. RELIGIOUS AND SPIRITUAL SITES Oude Kerk - Dating back to the 14th century, this is Amsterdam's oldest church. Rembrandt's wife is buried there. Open year round weekdays and Saturdays 11 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. Admission is fl 5 adults, fl 3.50 students and children. Oudekerksplein 1, near the Red-Light District, phone 625-8284. Portuguese Synagogue - Built by Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition in the 1600s. On Saturdays, a religious service is conducted at 8:45 am. Open for sightseeing Sunday-Friday 10 am-12:30 pm and 1-4 pm. Admission is fl 5 adults, fl 2.50 children. Visserplein 3, phone 428-2596. Westerkerk - Boasts the tallest and most beautiful tower in Amsterdam and is the burial place of Rembrandt. In summertime, it affords a spectacular view of the city. Open for sightseeing 10 am-4 pm daily except Sunday, from Easter to September only. Admission is free, but fl 3 is collected to climb the tower (same hours). In winter, it's open only for the Sunday service at 10:30 am. Prinsengracht 277, phone 624-7766. ZOOS AND WILDLIFE Artis Zoo - One of the oldest zoos in Europe, it contains more than 6,000 animals. It also embraces a geological museum, aquarium and planetarium. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Admission is fl 26.50 adults, fl 18.50 children ages 4-11. Plantage Kerklaan 40, phone 523-3400. ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES Homomonument - The world's first memorial to persecuted lesbians and gays. It's constructed from three, pink granite triangles that are reminders of the triangles of pink fabric that homosexuals were forced to wear in concentration camps during World War II. Flowers at the foot of the monument are often placed by friends and lovers of AIDS victims. On Westermarkt at the base of the Westerkerk. SECTION: Shopping The Dutch have always been great traders, and in Amsterdam shoppers are spoiled by the enormous diversity of shops. Leidsestraat, Kalverstraat, Nieuwendijk, Damrak and Rokin comprise the classic shopping route where the department stores, boutiques and souvenirs tend to be concentrated. The more exclusive shops are mainly along Beethovenstraat, Van Baerlestraat, P. C. Hooftstraat and Rokin, where international fashion houses, boutiques, jewelers and exclusive shoe shops are concentrated. Try exploring the narrow streets between the canals, which are crammed with unexpected little shops. The Jordaan district has an old-time atmosphere, with narrow streets and quaint shops, but it caters more to trendy tastes. Haarlemmerstraat, near Centraal Station, is coming into its own with fashionable boutiques and restaurants. For a shopping mall, head to Kalvertoren or Magna Plaza. No trip to Amsterdam is complete without a visit to the Flower Market. The Albert Cuyp Markt, Waterlooplein market and Noordermarkt also make for nice shopping experiences. Amsterdam is also a center of the diamond trade, and not surprisingly, prices are often more reasonable there than elsewhere. A free conducted tour of a diamond workshop will let you see diamonds being cut and polished as they have been for centuries. SHOPPING HOURS Regular shopping hours are Monday 11 am-6 pm; Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday 9 am-6 pm; Thursday 9 am-9 pm; and Saturday 9 am-5 pm. Many large downtown stores are open Sunday noon-5 pm. ANTIQUE STORES You may be able to pick up a bargain in one of more than 100 specialized antique shops in the Spiegel Quarter near the Rijksmuseum. Aronson Antiquairs - Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 39, phone 623-3103. Bebob Design Interior - Concentrates on secondhand furniture from the 1930s to the 1970s. Monday-Friday 11 am-6 pm. Prinsengracht 764, phone 624-5763. H. C. van Vliet - Old Dutch ceramics, tiles and glass. Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 74, phone 622-7782. Kunst en Antiekcentrum de Looier - A big indoor antique market, with dealers operating out of small stalls in a former milk factory. Open 11 am-5 pm every day but Friday. Elandsgracht 109, phone 625-1855. BOOKSTORES Amber Travel Agency - The best collection of travel books in Amsterdam, with numerous guides from small publishers not carried by the chains. Open weekdays 10 am-5 pm. Da Costastraat 77, phone 685-1155. American Book Centre - A wide range of hardbacks, paperbacks and magazines on every subject. Monday-Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Thursday 10 am-10 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Kalverstraat 185, phone 625-5537. Book Exchange - The source for used English-language paperbacks. Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-4 pm. Kloveniersburgwal 58, phone 626-6266. Waterstone's - A British chain with a large stock of English-language books on its three floors. Monday 11 am-6 pm, Tuesday and Wednesday 9 am-6 pm, Thursday 9 am-9 pm, Friday 9 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Kalverstraat 152, phone 638-3821. DEPARTMENT STORES De Bijenkorf - Amsterdam's best luxury department store, with the greatest variety of goods. It overlooks the Dam and the Royal Palace. All the international cosmetic houses are represented in the center section of the ground floor. On the upper floors you'll find everything from anoraks to zippers. Open Monday 11 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm (Thursday open until 9 pm), Sunday noon-5 pm. Dam 1, phone 621-8080. HEMA - A Woolworth's-type operation with 12 stores around Amsterdam. Many have inexpensive cafeterias. In the cheese section you can get their pungent smoked sausage (worst), which is served hot from a large pot. Try HEMA at Nieuwendijk 174-176, phone 623-4176, or at Kalvertoren (near Muntplein), phone 422-8988. Vroom en Dreesmann - A Dutch department store chain, with a store near Muntplein. Less extravagant than De Bijenkorf. Open Monday 11 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm (Thursday till 9 pm), Sunday noon-5 pm. Kalverstraat 203, phone 622-0171. GALLERIES Animation Art - Original drawings and gel paintings of all kinds of cartoons. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-6 pm, Saturday 11 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. Berenstraat 19, phone 627-7600. Atelier 408 - Dutch artists. Wednesday-Saturday noon-5 pm. Herengracht 408, phone 622-9314. Galerie Langenberg Kunst & Vorm - Displays the work of individual international artists. Open Wednesday-Sunday 1-6 pm. Korte Prinsengracht 44, phone 623-6337. Jaski Art Gallery - Specializes in contemporary art. Monday-Saturday 11 am-6 pm, Sunday noon-5 pm. Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 27-29, phone 620-3939. MALLS AND SHOPPING AREAS Amsterdamse Poort Shopping Centre - A huge concentration of shops and department stores in southeast Amsterdam. Bijlmerplein at Amsterdam Bijlmer Station, phone 696-2760. Haarlemmerstraat - Near Centraal Station, this is an up-and-coming area, with many one-of-a-kind stores and trendy brasseries and restaurants. Jordaan - An atmosphere all its own, with its narrow streets, quaint little shops housed in 17th-century buildings and picturesque canals. Secondhand shops and trendy boutiques make it a haven for students and artists. It's a tempting route for a stroll. Just across the canal from the Anne Frank House, a six-minute walk west of Dam Square, close to Brouwersgracht, Lijnbaansgracht and Looiersgracht. Kalvertoren - This shopping center has 40 department stores, specialty shops and restaurants. Located next to the Munt Toren and Flower Market, its stairs, escalator and glass elevator take visitors to the restaurant on top for a good view of the entire city. Open most days 10 am-7 pm, until 9 pm on Thursday, until 6 pm on Saturday. Sunday hours are noon-6 pm. Magna Plaza - Beautifully restored main post office just behind the Dam that has been converted into a striking shopping complex. It has lots of specialty shops, including the rapidly expanding Virgin record store. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal at Raadhuisstraat. MARKETS Albert Cuyp Markt - The city's largest street market. All types of foods (especially from Suriname), clothing, textiles, plants and flowers. It's held six days a week. There's a book market Fridays. Take Tram 4, 16, 24 or 25. On Albert Cuypstraat. Flower Market - The famous market is on a row of barges moored permanently on the Singel at Muntplein. Open daily. Noordermarkt - A Saturday farmers market and Monday flea market surrounding the old wood and stone Noorderkerk (North Church), at the beginning of Prinsengracht, near Centraal Station. The coffeehouses surrounding the square are authentically Amsterdam. Rommelmarkt - A big flea market at Looiersgracht 38. Open 11 am-5 pm every day but Friday. Stamp Market - An outdoor market held along Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal behind the Amsterdams Historisch Museum. Every Wednesday and Saturday. Thorbecke Sunday Art Market - A source for all manner of jewelry, paintings, sculptures and wired-media pieces by local artists. Sunday 8 am-4 pm. Outdoors at Thorbeckeplein, off Rembrandtplein. Waterlooplein - A well-known outdoor flea market. A sophisticated shopper may be able to pluck a genuine antique from amidst the junk. Open every day, but on Sundays in the summer the kitschier goods are replaced by antiques and books. SPECIALTY STORES Amsterdam Diamond Centre - A diamond showroom. Rokin 1 (near Dam Square), phone 624-5787. Coster Diamonds - A diamond showroom. Paulus Potterstraat 2-4 (near the Rijksmuseum), phone 676-2222. Hendrikse le Confiseur - Delicious handmade chocolates. Open Tuesday-Friday 8:45 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 8:45 am-4:30 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. Trams 1 and 6. Overtoom 448-450, phone 618-0260. Jacob Hooy - This atmospheric and historic shop opened in 1743. Drink in the heady fragrances emanating from hundreds of different herbs, spices and teas. Monday 10 am-6 pm, Tuesday-Friday 8 am-6 pm, Saturday 8 am-5 pm. Kloveniersburgwal 12, phone 624-3041. Musiques du Monde - Amsterdam's finest selection of cassettes and compact discs. Monday 1-6 pm, Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday to 8 pm, Saturday to 5 pm. Singel 281, phone 624-1354. Wegewijs Kaas - Choose from the hundreds of different cheeses there, both domestic and foreign. Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-4:30 pm. Trams 13, 14, 17. Rozengracht 32, phone 624-4093. UNIQUE OR UNUSUAL Focke & Meltzer - The best shop in Amsterdam for authentic Delft Blue porcelain. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-5:30 pm (Thursday to 9 pm). P. C. Hooftstraat 65-67, phone 664-2311. Knopenwinkel - This button shop stocks more than 8,000 varieties. Monday 1-6 pm, Tuesday-Friday 11 am-6 pm, Saturday 11 am-5 pm. Wolvenstraat 14, phone 624-0479. INTRODUCTION | SIGHTSEEING | SHOPPING | DINING | NIGHTLIFE | RECREATION WHERE TO STAY | CALENDAR | PICK ANOTHER CITY SECTION: Dining Practically every cuisine in the world is represented in Amsterdam, from sophisticated French fare to the renowned Indonesian rijsttafel. Enjoy an Argentinean steak in a decor that evokes the vast pampas, dine on a pleasure boat cruising the canals, stop at any of the inexpensive Middle Eastern grills that seem to be on every other block, or try any of the small Chinese restaurants lining the Zeedijk and its many cross streets. The hearty Dutch breakfast consists of a selection of breads, local cheeses, sliced meats, butter and jam. Lunch is usually a light snack, with dinner the main meal, eaten usually between 6 and 8 pm. Most restaurant kitchens close by 10 pm. Reservations are advisable, because restaurants are often small and may be crowded during peak periods. At least once you should try a cone of french fries served with mayonnaise or peanut-butter sauce or any of an ever-increasing number of exotic condiments. The best french fries are called vlaamse frites (Flemish fries). Other Dutch specialties reflect this people's close relationship with the sea: smoked eel, for example, and raw herring (which is usually eaten whole with chopped onions). In winter, locals savor hearty meals of mashed potatoes combined with such vegetables as cabbage, onions and carrots (hutspot) topped with delicious smoked sausage; or snert (also called erwtensoep), a thick pea soup usually served with sausage. Make a meal of the pannenkoeken, large Dutch pancakes with bacon, cheese, apples or other ingredients mixed into the batter, or poffertjes, tiny pancakes with powdered sugar. Cafes often serve a plate of three fried eggs with ham or cheese, known as an uitsmijter, which the Dutch usually have for lunch (although it makes an excellent breakfast). Restaurants with Dutch specialties on the menu can be recognized by the red, white and blue soup tureen symbol. The Dutch are famous for their gin (jenever) and beer (pils). A popular winter drink is a rich herbal liqueur called beerenburg. Bottled imported wines are expensive, but a carafe of house wine is usually of good quality. The Dutch drink their coffee strong, usually with cream and sugar, but tea is normally drunk weak and without milk. Below is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks or tip but including tax (which is never added as an extra): $ = less than fl 15; $$ = fl 15-fl 30; $$$ = fl 31-fl 60; and $$$$ = more than fl 60. FAVORITE RESTAURANTS Christophe - This restaurant has three sections: Downstairs is an ample bar for aperitifs, the upstairs dining room has movable tables and the back room is well suited to small groups. The interior was designed by U.S. artist William Katz, known for his striking ballet scenery. Classic French cuisine. Tuesday-Saturday 6:30-10:30 pm. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Leliegracht 46, Amsterdam. Phone 625-0807. D'Vijff Vlieghen - The name, which translates as "The Five Flies," is no reflection on the sanitation of this popular restaurant, which is famous for its traditional Dutch meals. It occupies five canal houses. Each of the six dining rooms (including the Rembrandt Room and the Glass Room) has a unique story, and the wait staff is happy to relate them. Daily 5:30-10 pm. Reservations essential. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Spuistraat 294-302, Amsterdam. Phone 624-8369. De Kersentuin - Decorated in cherry red (the name means "the cherry orchard") with gleaming brass trimmings - a truly sumptuous restaurant. The international menu includes foie gras, venison steak and a chocolate tureen with Cointreau-flavored ice cream. Open Monday-Friday noon-2 pm and 6-11 pm, Saturday 6-11 pm. Reservations essential. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Dijsselhofplantsoen 7, Amsterdam. Phone 664-2121. De Ondeugd - Located near the famous Albert Cuyp Market, this restaurant is a magnet for Dutch celebrities - TV soap-opera stars, national-league soccer players and writers. Creative international treats such as the dish named TV-Chef (fish with chutney) and kletsmajoor (which means someone who talks too much, but it's an ice-cream dessert). Daily 6 pm-midnight (kitchen open only until 11 pm). Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. F. Bolstraat 13-15, Amsterdam. Phone 672-0651. Excelsior - Sheer luxury, at the distinguished Hotel de l'Europe on Muntplein. Crystal chandeliers, windows overlooking the Amstel. Its haute cuisine has earned it a Michelin star. Open for lunch Sunday-Friday noon-2:30 pm. Open for dinner daily 7-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8, Amsterdam. Phone 531-1777. La Rive - This refined restaurant is situated in the beautiful and distinguished Amstel Inter-Continental Hotel. The French-Mediterranean cuisine includes such specialties as langoustine with tomatoes and warm chocolate cake with ice cream. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-2 pm; dinner Monday-Saturday 6:30-10:30 pm. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Prof. Tulpplein 1, Amsterdam. Phone 622-6060. Le Ciel Bleu - This is, no doubt, the restaurant in Amsterdam with the highest altitude - located on the 23rd floor of the Hotel Okura. Not only is the view impressive, but the restaurant interior is beautifully decorated with a painted, star-filled night sky. The food is French and superb, the wine list extensive, and two set vegetarian menus are available. A relaxing place for Sunday brunch, which is served from 11:30 am. Open daily 6:30 pm-midnight. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, Amsterdam. Phone 678-7111. Oud-Holland Restaurant - A cozy old establishment with antique Dutch decor that serves authentic Dutch dishes of all kinds. Monday-Saturday noon-10 pm. Reservations advised before 7 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwe Zijdsvoorburgwal 105, Amsterdam. Phone 624-6848. Supper Club - A combination of dining and dancing. For the dining part, you are seated on pillows next to a low table, as you're served from a menu of Pakistani, Indian, French and Italian food. If you can stir yourself afterward, you can dance to the music cooked up by the deejays. Reservations a must. $$. Most major credit cards. Jonge Roelensteeg 21, Amsterdam. Phone 638-0513. Takens - Chef Edwin Takens is considered to be the "angry young man" of culinary Amsterdam. His gastronomic experiments are based in traditional French and Italian cooking but dabble in Asian. For a surprise meal, order the Chef's Menu. Daily 6-11 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Runstraat 17d, Amsterdam. Phone 627-0618. LOCAL AND REGIONAL SPECIALTIES Brasserie De Port - Located in Hotel Port van Cleve, this restaurant is a citadel of traditional Dutch cooking. Best known for such old Dutch specialties as stompot and zuurkool, but offers international dishes as well. Daily noon-10:15 pm. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 176-180, Amsterdam. Phone 624-0047. ASIAN Indonesia - One of the best-known Indonesian restaurants, and a haunt of Dutch politicians, located just off Leidseplein. The rijsttafel, with its vast selection of Indonesian dishes wedded to sturdy Dutch vegetables and beef, is an experience not to be missed. Daily 5 pm-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18, phone 623-2035. Orient - Many vegetarian dishes and a good rijsttafel. Conveniently located near the Concertgebouw and museums. On Wednesday only, they serve an all-you-can-eat buffet for approximately fl 40. Reservations recommended, necessary on Wednesday. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Daily 5-10 pm. Van Baerlestraat 21, phone 673-4958. Sama Sebo - A very well-known Indonesian restaurant, located just off Leidseplein. It's often crowded with Dutch politicians, football players and society people. You can eat either at the tables or at the lively bar. Monday-Saturday noon-10 pm. Reservations accepted for table seating only. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards. P. C. Hooftstraat 27, phone 662-8146. BREAKFAST AND BRUNCH Centraal Station Restaurant - This reasonably priced self-service restaurant, upstairs in Centraal Station next to Track 2a, serves breakfast until 10 am daily. $-$$. Monday-Saturday 7 am-10 pm, Sunday 8 am-10 pm. Stationsplein. HEMA Department Store - The self-service cafeteria (snelbuffet) upstairs in this department store is good for a late breakfast or lunch. $-$$. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-5 pm, Sunday noon-6 pm. Kalvertoren, near Muntplein, phone 422-8988. CAFES AND TEA ROOMS Cafe Americain - This cafe in the American Hotel is a favorite place to meet for coffee or an after-theater drink. It offers a relaxed atmosphere under high-vaulted ceilings. You can enjoy newspapers at the reading tables. In warm weather, have a salad on the terrace. Cafe open for breakfast from 7 am, restaurant open noon-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$$. Most major credit cards. Leidsekade 97, phone 624-5322. FRENCH Het Tuynhuys - Just behind the Flower Market, with a garden open in summer. Monday-Friday noon-2:30 pm, 6-10:30 pm, on Saturday and Sunday dinner only, 6-10:30 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Reguliersdwarstraat 28, phone 627-6603. LATE NIGHT De Nachwacht - This charcoal grill is a popular choice for a late dinner. Daily 4 pm-12:30 am, Saturday and Sunday to 1:30 am. Reservations requested. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Thorbeckplein 2, just off Rembrandtplein, phone 622-4794. MEXICAN Rosa's Cantina - Packed with Dutch yuppies consuming huge portions of Tex-Mex, washed down with pitchers of margaritas. No reservations taken, but you can get drinks at the bar while you wait. Daily 5-11 pm, bar stays open until 1 am. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Regulierdwarsstraat 38-40, phone 625-9797. SEAFOOD De Oesterbar - Very popular fish restaurant. You select your fish from tanks. Daily noon-midnight. Reservations accepted. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Leiseplein 10, Amsterdam. Phone 623-2988. Sluizer's - Popular draw for fish lovers, who may experiment with a continually changing variety of sauces. Popular and informal, with wooden walls and lots of art. Reservations necessary on weekends. Lunch Monday-Friday noon-3:30 pm; dinner Monday-Thursday 5-11 pm, Friday and Saturday 5 pm-midnight. Reservations necessary on weekends. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Utrechtsestraat 45, Amsterdam. Phone 626-3557. VEGETARIAN De Vrolijke Abrikoos - Vegetarian specialties are served, along with some fish and meat dishes. Organic ingredients from around the world. A warm atmosphere, with classical music playing in the background. Daily 5:30-10 pm. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Weteringschans 76, phone 624-4672. ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES Amsterdam Dinner Cruise - Lets you sightsee along the illuminated canals while you dine. The three-hour cruise departs every day from a pier in front of Centraal Station, from April-October at 8 pm, but in winter Tuesday, Friday and Saturday only, at 7 pm. Cost is approximately fl 150 per person, dinner and drinks included. Reservations are essential; make them through your hotel or Holland International Tourist Office. Phone 622-7788. In de Waag - Built in 1430 as the gatehouse to the city, this structure served for a couple of centuries as the weigh station for goods coming into Amsterdam. Today it's an elegant cafe and restaurant. Internet access can be had for the price of a drink. Sample muffins and uitsmijters for breakfast, salads and sandwiches for lunch, grill offerings at dinner. Daily 10 am-midnight. No reservations. $$$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwmarkt 4, phone 422-7772. Soeterijn Restaurant - Specializes in the African and Asian cuisines of the countries showcased in the adjacent Tropenmuseum and in performances at the Soeterijn Theater. For a multicultural experience, book tickets for an evening show at the Soeterijn by calling 568-8500 weekdays from 10 am-4 pm, then reserve a table for dinner at the restaurant (see the museum in the afternoon). Lunch Tuesday-Friday noon-3 pm, dinner Monday-Saturday 5:30-8:30 pm. $. Reservations recommended. Most major credit cards. Linnaeusstraat 2, phone 568-8392. VOC Cafe in de Schreierstoren - The plaque in front of this restaurant, built in 1482, reads, "From this 'Tower of Tears' Henry Hudson set sail for the New World on 4 April 1695." For centuries, women have shed tears waving goodbye to their men from this spot. The brick walls now house a cafe serving lunch and snacks. Two terraces offer fine views. On the top floor is a shop with books, maps and nautical equipment. Open daily 10 am-1 am. $-$$. Credit cards not accepted. Prins Hendrikkade 94, phone 428-8291. SECTION: Nightlife Nightclubs, dance clubs, bars and taverns offer plenty of after-dark options. In summer, the sidewalk cafes are crowded until late, and street performers entertain in the public squares. Jazz is popular on the live-music scene, and the city offers abundant opportunities to enjoy it. Try Alto Jazz Cafe or Bimhuis for live acts. Nightclubs and late-night dance clubs are clustered around Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein. De Melkweg is a perennial favorite, but check out Sinners in Heaven and Seymour Likely, too. Amsterdam has a reputation for its thriving gay scene, and many bars and nightclubs catering to gay people are in the Red-Light District, along Amstel, Reguliersdwasstraat, Warmoesstraat and Kerkstraat. Saturday night at the club called iT is a good place to start. An Amsterdam institution is the "brown cafe" (bruine kroeg), a dark, smoke-filled tavern found on many corners throughout the old sections of the city. Cafe Hoppe, Cafe Luxembourg and Papeneiland are good, but crowded, examples of these. A more refined setting for a late-night drink is the gilded, mirrored interior of the Grand Cafe l'Opera. BARS, TAVERNS AND PUBS Cafe 'T Smalle - As its name suggests, this place is tiny - and you may have a hard time finding a seat. (It was originally a liquor distillery.) Sunday-Thursday 10 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday 10 am-2 am. Egelantiersgracht 12, phone 623-9617. Cafe Hoppe - Gets so crowded that patrons often overflow into the street. Daily 8 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday to 2 am. Spui 18-20, phone 623-7849. Cafe Luxembourg - A favored pub, this neighbor of Cafe Hoppe is open 365 days a year for breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks. Spui 24, phone 620-6264. Cafe West Pacific - One of Amsterdam's current "in" cafes. After 11 pm Thursday-Sunday it turns into a disco. Daily 11:30 am-1 am (to 3 am on weekends). Haarlemmerweg 8-10, phone 597-4458. Grand Cafe l'Opera - Another drinking establishment, it boasts a large heated terrace and imposing Parisian-style interior full of mirrors and gilt. Daily 10 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday until 2 am. Rembrandtsplein 27-29, phone 620-4754. NOL - Has a very kitschy red velvet and brass interior and rowdy patrons. Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Sunday 9 pm-3 am, Friday and Saturday to 4 am. Closed Tuesday. Westerstraat 109, phone 625-2729. Papeneiland - An ancient brown cafe in the Jordaan district. Daily 11 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday until 2 am. Prinsengracht 2, phone 624-1989. DANCE CLUBS/NIGHTCLUBS Dansen bij Jansen - Popular with students. Handboogsteeg 11, phone 620-1779. De Melkweg - On two floors of an old dairy factory, with a dance floor, theater and movie theater. You must buy a temporary membership (about fl 4 per month), but it's worth the money. Admission ranges between fl 15 and fl 30. Lijnbaansgracht 234, phone 624-1777. Escape - One of Amsterdam's largest discos, with a dazzling light-and-laser show. Thursday-Saturday 11 pm-5 am. Cover charge Thursday fl 15, Friday and Saturday fl 25 (more if there's a special party). Rembrandtsplein 11, phone 622-1111. iT - The most outrageous gay club in town. There's a huge dance floor, and fancy dress is required (look for fashion tips in the photos of typical costumes, displayed outside). Saturday is Gay Only Night; Thursday and Sunday the crowd is mixed - and large! Thursday and Sunday 11 am-4 am, Friday and Saturday to 5 am. Amstelstraat 24, phone 421-6924. Mazzo - House and jungle music. Rozengracht 24, phone 626-7500. Richter - Soul, R&B and jungle. Reguliersdwarsstraat 36, phone 422-9836. Roxy - A nightclub housed in an old, converted movie house attracting Amsterdam's hip and beautiful crowd. Weekly parties with themes like leather, soul and hard gay nights (Wednesdays). Singel 465-467, phone 620-0354. Seymour Likely - Very trendy dance club. Nieuwezijdse Voorburgwal 250, phone 627-1427. Sinners in Heaven - This hot club attracts a share of celebrities because the owner, Jorgos, was once the boyfriend of Leontine Ruiters (a Dutch TV star, who is now married to Dutch singer Marco Borsato). The club's other claim to fame is its resident deejay, Martijn Krabbe, who is a TV star in his own right and son of the famous actor Jeroen Krabbe. Three floors of sinners and beautifully decorated. Thursday 11 pm-4 am (fl 12.50), Friday 11 pm-5 am (fl 15), Saturday 11 pm-5 am (fl 17.50), Sunday 9 pm-4 am (fl 12.50). Wagenstraat 3-7, phone 620-1375. SoulKitchen - For the older set. Amstelstraat 32, phone 620-2333. LIVE MUSIC Alto Jazz Cafe - A jazz hangout. Daily 10 pm-2 am, Friday and Saturday to 3 am. No cover charge. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 115, phone 620-7285. Bimhuis - Regularly hosts visiting American jazz artists, as well as those from other European cities. Open daily (except Wednesday and Sunday) 8 pm-2 am, Saturday to 3 am. Admission is free Monday and Tuesday (when workshops are held) except when a special group is playing. Bimhuis closes for summer holidays from July to mid August. It's at Oudeschans 73-77, phone 623-1361 (recorded message in Dutch), phone 623-3373 (answers weekdays 11 am-1 pm and 2-5 pm). Bourbon Street - Serves up Dixieland, jazz and blues by local groups as well as some from the U.S. Cover charge when better-known musicians perform, but otherwise free. Open weekdays 10 pm-4 am, weekends 10 pm-5 am. Leidsekruisstraat 6-8, phone 623-3440. De Kleine Komedie - A theater that presents cabaret performances and concerts by visiting folk or pop groups. Amstel 56 near Rembrandtsplein, phone 624-0534. Theater Carre - Large-scale productions with big stars. Amstel 115-125, phone 622-5225. INTRODUCTION | SIGHTSEEING | SHOPPING | DINING | NIGHTLIFE | RECREATION WHERE TO STAY | CALENDAR | PICK ANOTHER CITY Recreation With lakes, canals and rivers covering nearly one-fifth of the Netherlands, water sports are very popular. Swimming is your best bet in Amsterdam. Pool schedules vary to accommodate school groups, senior swims and nude swimming, so it's best to call first. Zuiderbad and De Mirandabad are both good choices. A visit to Sauna Deco is a good way to unwind and relax. Cycling is not only a popular pasttime; it's also a good way to get around the city. You can rent bikes at most train stations or from several private companies. Vondelpark is a good spot to cycle and jog, and the Amsterdams Bos is also good for jogging, walking or hiking. Amsterdam also has two public golf courses. When the canals freeze over - not that often - everyone takes to the ice! At other times, you can skate at an indoor rink. BICYCLING Amsterdam is a city of cyclists, with approximately half a million bikes on its roads and paths. You can rent bikes at or near most train stations in the Netherlands - you can also take them on the train for a small fee. Rental rates range from about fl 10-fl 15 a day, or fl 35-fl 75 a week, with a credit card imprint usually required for a deposit. Damstraat Rent-A-Bike - Pieter Jacobsz Dwarsstraat 7-13, just off Dam Square (Trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24 and 25), phone 625-5029. MacBike - Marnixstraat 220 (Tram 17), phone 626-6964. Take-A-Bike - A bit cheaper than the others, with a deposit of fl 200 required. Open 8 am-10 pm. Stationsplein 12, phone 624-8391. GOLF Golf en Conference Centre Amstelborgh - Greens fees are fl 20 plus fl 15 club rental. Monday-Friday 8 am-10:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 8 am-9 pm. Borchlandweg 6, Duivendrecht (a 10-minute walk from Duivendrecht Metro station), phone 697-5000. Sportpark Sloten - Greens fees are fl 20, plus fl 12.50 club rentals. No handicap required. Weekdays 8:30 am-dusk, weekends closed. Sloterweg 1045 (Bus 142), phone 615-5809. HEALTH CLUBS American Fitness - A range of martial arts training, including kick boxing, tai chi, aikido and pentjak silat. Monday 1-10 pm, Tuesday-Friday 10 am-10 pm, Saturday 9 am-3 pm, Sunday 2:30-8:30 pm. Blasiusstraat 144 (Metro to Wibautstraat), phone 694-1358. Fitness Aerobic Centre Jansen - Aerobics, weight and cardiac training, sauna and a steam bath (a day card costs fl 25). Daily 10:30-8 pm. Rokin 109 (Trams 4, 9, 14, 16, 24 and 25), phone 626-9366. Sporting Club Leidseplein - Aerobics, squash and a fitness club (a day card costs fl 25). Weekdays 9 am-midnight, weekends 10 am-6 pm. Korte Leidsedwarsstraat 18 (Trams 1, 2 and 5), phone 620-6631. HIKING AND WALKING Amsterdams Bos - A man-made forest planted as a public works project, this is also a popular spot for walking and hiking. From Centraal Station or Leidseplein, take Bus 170 or 171. Or take Bus 63 from Leidseplein in the direction of Amstelveen. Exit at Nijenrodeweg. ICE SKATING In winter it's sometimes cold enough for the canals to freeze over, and then you can join the Dutch in racing up and down the waterways. Jaap Eden IJshockeyhal Kunstijsbaan - An indoor rink, open daily October to mid March Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4 pm, Saturday 2-4 pm, Sunday 11 am-4 pm. Costs fl 7 adults, fl 4.50 children. Radioweg 64 (Tram 9), phone 694-9652. JOGGING Vondelpark - Zealous joggers clock up daily rounds in Vondelpark, where routes of various distances are conveniently marked. Just west of Leidseplein. SWIMMING De Mirandabad - An indoor pool with a tropical setting - beaches, tides - and whirlpools. It closes in very hot weather when everyone prefers to swim outside in the facility's outdoor pool. Phone for opening hours. Mirandalaan 9, near the RAI Congrescentrum (Tram 25), phone 546-4444. Marnixbad - Marnixplein 9 (Bus 18 or Tram 10), phone 625-4843 (call for opening hours). Zuiderbad - An indoor pool open year round. Monday-Friday 7 am-10:30 pm, Saturday 8 am-3:30 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-3 pm. Hobbemastraat 26, near the Rijksmuseum (Trams 2 and 5), phone 679-2217. ADDITIONAL EXPERIENCES Canal Bike - A wonderful way to explore the canals - and it's free of traffic lights and detours! Choosing your own route is part of the fun. Costs fl 12.50 per hour for one person, fl 25 per hour for two people, fl 10 per hour for three or more. There's a fl 50 deposit. These pedal boats are kept at three locations: opposite the Rijksmuseum, near Leidseplein and at the Westerkerk. Phone 626-5574, fax 624-1033. Oibibio - A spiritually oriented place that occupies a restored gable house. It offers massage as well as classes in meditation, tai chi, yoga or African dance in 10 cozy rooms (accommodating 2-120 people). A sauna and a nice restaurant and bookstore are also on the premises. Prins Hendrikkade 20-21 (opposite Centraal Station), phone 553-9311. Sauna Deco - Enjoy a Turkish steam bath or a Norwegian sauna in interesting art-deco surroundings. Monday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday 1-6 pm. Admission is fl 25, with a special fl 17.50 rate weekdays 11 am-2 pm. Herengracht 115, at Blauwburgwal near Centraal Station, phone 623-8215. SECTION: Where to Stay Lodgings in Amsterdam range from deluxe hotels to youth hostels. Advance reservations are advisable, particularly for spring and summer months. Ask what a double costs before requesting a single, and inquire about specials. Few guests pay the standard rate charged those who wander in without reservations; you'll save perhaps several hundred guilders by calling ahead for a booking. Prices at the Okura Amsterdam, American Hotel, Barbizon Palace, Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky and Amstel Inter-Continental can vary by as much as 50% depending on the deal you happen to get, so call around. Below is a sampling of hotels; it is not intended to be a comprehensive list. Expect costs to fall within these general guidelines, based on the standard rate for a single room: $ = less than fl 250; $$ = fl 250-fl 400; $$$ = more than fl 400. AIRPORT AREA Golden Tulip Schiphol - This hotel is convenient to both the airport (4 mi/6 km away) and the conference centers. Single to king-size rooms available. Restaurant, health club, massage, sauna and solarium (small fee), squash and outdoor tennis court. Free shuttle bus to the airport. $-$$$ Kruisweg 495, Hoofddorp. Phone 20-655-0550. Toll-free 800-344-1212. Fax 20-653-4999. Hilton Amsterdam Airport Schiphol - Located in the airport complex and only two minutes away via a free hotel shuttle bus. Comfortable soundproofed rooms, nonsmoking rooms, accommodations for the disabled. Health club, heated pool, massage, sauna and solarium. Popular with business travelers, with its business center and 20 multifunctional meeting rooms. $$$. Herbergierstraat, Amsterdam. Phone 20-603-4567. Toll-free 800-HILTONS. Fax 20-648-0917. Sheraton Amsterdam Airport Htl/Conf Ctr - In the airport complex, only a minute away from the concourse via escalator. More than 400 soundproof rooms, including comfortable executive suites. Health club, sauna, fitness center and swimming pool with underwater massage. Also a business center and 12 meeting rooms. $$$. Schiphol Blvd 101, Schiphol Airport, Amsterdam. Phone 20-316-4300. Toll-free 800-325-3535. Fax 20-316-4399. CITY American Hotel - This hotel, a belltower-topped Victorian structure, is ideally situated in the heart of Amsterdam close to the museums, theaters, cinemas and shops. A pier in front of the hotel is an excellent starting point for a canal-boat trip. Three conference rooms and a modern fitness center with sauna and jet-stream shower. Comfortable and homey. $$. Leidsekade 97, Amsterdam. Phone 20-624-5322. Toll-free 800-465-4329. Fax 20-625-3236. Amstel Botel Hotel - A decade ago there were many floating hotels on barges around Centraal Station, but this is the only survivor. If you want no-frills accommodations in a perfect location at the best price in town, you won't be disappointed with this choice. Turn left as you come out of the railway station and follow the canal east a few minutes until you see this big, white botel tied up next to a huge floating Chinese restaurant. $. Oosterdokskade 2-4, Amsterdam. Phone 20-626-4247. Fax 20-639-1952. Amstel Inter-Continental Hotel - Ranks among Europe's finest hotels with a superb location overlooking the Amstel River. The 55 spacious rooms and 24 suites in this impressive 1867 building complement a magnificent grand entry hall, a restaurant that was awarded one Michelin star in 1994, an elegant lounge and bar, riverside terraces, health and fitness club, and seven banquet and conference suites. $$$. Professor Tulpplein 1, Amsterdam. Phone 20-622-6060. Toll-free 800-327-0200. Fax 20-622-5808. Crowne Plaza Amsterdam City Centre - A few minutes from Centraal Station and on a major shopping street, it has a swimming pool, fitness room and sauna, bar and coffee shop. A popular restaurant, Dorius, occupies one of the two historic row houses that the hotel incorporates. The premium rooms are located in the other row house; quietest rooms overlook the canal. Some rooms set aside for nonsmokers and disabled guests. KLM shuttle to and from the airport. $$$. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 5, Amsterdam. Phone 20-620-0500. Toll-free 800-2-CROWNE. Fax 20-620-1173. Galaxy Hotel - You could almost guess that this institutional-looking, six-story hotel was once a hospital, though the beds are usually occupied by Europeans on package bus tours these days. The Galaxy is a good budget option for anyone wanting to be near the center - it's only a 10-minute walk due north from the 24-hour free ferry behind Centraal Station (or take Bus 34 or 35). Ample free parking and easy access to the freeways. $. Distelkade 21, Amsterdam. Phone 20-634-4366. Fax 20-636-0345. Golden Tulip Amsterdam Centre - Elegant hotel overlooking Leidseplein, the square famous for its theaters and clubs and one of the liveliest locations in Amsterdam. Business meeting rooms available; rooms set aside for nonsmokers and disabled guests. Sauna, whirlpools, exercise room, massage. Superb staff. Highly regarded restaurant serving Dutch and French cuisines. $$$. Stadhouderskade 7 Leidseplein, Amsterdam. Phone 20-685-1351. Toll-free 800-344-1212. Fax 20-685-1611. Golden Tulip Barbizon Palace - A chic, modern luxury hotel behind the recently restored facades of magnificent Amsterdam houses. Conference center and meeting rooms available. Fitness center and a water-taxi service from the private dock. Opposite Centraal Station - plenty of atmosphere, several forms of transport right at your front door. $$$. Prins Hendrikkade 59-72, Amsterdam. Phone 20-620-1207. Toll-free 800-344-1212. Fax 20-624-3353. Golden Tulip Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky - The 429-room Krasnapolsky brims with the Old World flavor of Europe. Its green-and-gold lobby is expansive and inviting; its location in the heart of Amsterdam is unsurpassed; and the KLM airport bus will drop you at the door. Business and conference center. $$$. Dam 9, Amsterdam. Phone 20-554-9111. Toll-free 800-344-1212. Fax 20-622-8607. The Grand Amsterdam Sofitel Demeure Htl - Built as a cloister in 1490, this handsome edifice served for two centuries as an inn for the dukes and princes of Europe, then served as the City Hall from 1808 until the new City Hall opened in 1986. Still steeped in history, it encompasses 182 rooms as well as 19 meeting rooms with audiovisual equipment, pool, sauna, a cafe and garden for outdoor dining. The main hall glows with mahogany latticework and stained-glass windows. $$$. Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197, PO Box 10904, Amsterdam. Phone 20-555-3111. Toll-free 800-221-4542. Fax 20-555-3222. Hotel de l'Europe - Located in the heart of Amsterdam's shopping, cultural and business center, overlooking the Amstel River and Mint Tower and just opposite the Flower Market. Renovated and quietly elegant. Conference rooms accommodating 200, business services. Private boat landing. Fitness center with indoor heated swimming pool, sauna, massage therapy. Glass-walled restaurant with terrific view. $$$. Nieuwe Doelenstraat 2-8, Amsterdam. Phone 20-5311777. Toll-free 800-223-6800. Fax 20-5311778. Hotel de Lantaerne - A small, clean, friendly and inexpensive hotel near Leidseplein. $. Leidsegracht 111, Amsterdam. Phone 20-623-2221. Fax 20-623-2683. Ibis Amsterdam Centre - This modern steel tower attached to Centraal Station is a good choice for anyone in search of an inexpensive place to stay with easy access to the Netherland's excellent public transportation system. $. Stationsplein 49, Amsterdam. Phone 20-638-9999. Toll-free 800-221-4542. Fax 20-620-0156. Inntel Amsterdam Centre - One of the newer hotels in Amsterdam, on a new square of shops, banks and restaurants in the old city. During construction, workers uncovered (and preserved) the ruins of a 13th-century castle. Excellently located, it's near the cafes of Dam Square, the Anne Frank House and Centraal Station. A shopping arcade is attached. No pool or business center as yet, but the staff will help you locate these amenities. Rooms are small, clean and quiet. $$. Nieuwezijdskolk, 19, Amsterdam. Phone 20-530-1818. Fax 20-422-1919. Rembrandt Residence Hotel - Quiet hotel on a canal just a few blocks from Dam Square. Distinctive buildings are historic and handsome. Rooms are small, simple and clean. Breakfast buffet will keep you energized the entire day. $$. Herengracht 255, Amsterdam. Phone 20-622-1727. Fax 20-625-0630. SUBURBAN Holiday Inn Amsterdam - Situated in the south of Amsterdam (actually, south of downtown) opposite the Amstelpark and close by the RAI Congrescentrum. All rooms equipped with tea- and coffee-making equipment, minibar, hair dryer and air-conditioning. Full range of business services. $$. De Boelelaan 2, Amsterdam. Phone 20-646-2300. Toll-free 800-HOLIDAY. Fax 20-646-4790. Hotel Mercure Amsterdam Airport - Located 3 mi/5 km southeast of the city, near Overamstel Metro station, with easy access by road to the airport. No-frills decor, but plenty of amenities (gym, squash courts, restaurants, conference facilities for up to 500). $$. Oude Haagseweg 20, Amsterdam. Phone 20-617-9005. Toll-free 800-221-4542. Fax 20-615-9027. Hotel Okura Amsterdam - Originally built for Japanese travelers but now representing a blend of Western and Asian styles. Situated close to the RAI Congrescentrum and the World Trade Centre, its location and extensive accommodations for meetings and conferences make it convenient if you're attending nearby functions. But be aware that it's not well located for sightseeing. We also find it a bit unfriendly, the personal touch somewhat lacking and the rooms small. Still, the Okura is respected for its three Japanese restaurants as well as its rooftop venue serving French cuisine. Ties are required for men in all restaurants. $$$. Ferdinand Bolstraat 333, Amsterdam. Phone 20-678-7111. Fax 20-671-2344. Novotel - Right in the heart of the Amsterdam Business Center, within easy reach of the World Trade Centre and the RAI Congrescentrum, this hotel was designed with the business traveler in mind. Well-equipped rooms and extensive accommodations for meetings. $$. Europa Blvd 10, Amsterdam. Phone 20-541-1123. Toll-free 800-221-4542. Fax 20-646-2823. SECTION: Amsterdam Calendar INTRODUCTION AMSTERDAM overflows with bountiful art, sculpture, photography and other kinds of exhibits. Concerts by the famed Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, pulsating nightlife and music festivals add to Amsterdam's busy cultural schedule. If you call the Amsterdam phone numbers in this calendar from outside the Netherlands, you must first dial your country's international access code, then the Netherlands' country code, 31, then Amsterdam's city code, 20. Information in this calendar is subject to change and should be confirmed. OCTOBER 2000 1-8 Oct - Art Exhibit. "Rembrandt in Various States." Part 1 of a two-part exhibition displaying the artist's drawings and etchings. Rijksmuseum, Stadhouderskade 42, phone 674-7000. Concludes 8 Oct. 1-31 Oct - Art Exhibit. "God's Golden Shrine." The history of saints and shrines throughout the Middle Ages, with miniature paintings and samples of shrines. De Nieuwe Kerk, Gravenstraat 17, phone 638-6909. Continues through 28 Feb 2001. 14-31 Oct - Art Exhibit. "Rembrandt in Various States." Part 2 of a two-part exhibition displaying the artist's drawings and etchings. Rijksmuseum, Stadhouderskade 42, phone 674-7000. Continues through 7 Jan 2001. 14-31 Oct - Art Exhibit. "Rembrandt's Pupils." Rembrandt's influence as an etcher on his contemporaries and followers. Rembrandthuis, Jodenbreestraat 4-6, phone 624-9486. Continues through 7 Jan 2001. Mid October - Amsterdam Cinekid Film Festival. A two-week film festival for children. For information, call 624-7110. 17 Oct - Amsterdam Marathon. Annual marathon through the streets of Amsterdam. For more information, call 551-2525. 20-31 Oct - Art Exhibit. "Light." Art , technology and society in the Industrial Age, 1750-1900. Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7, phone 570-5200. Continues through 11 Feb 2001. Throughout October - Concerts. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra performs in the Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6, phone 671-8345. Continues through late June 2001. Throughout October - Opera. Performances by the Netherlands Opera at the Muziektheater, Waterlooplein 22. For tickets, phone 625-5455. Continues through early June 2001. NOVEMBER 2000 Early-Late November - Amsterdam in Lights. Throughout the city, hotels, canal houses, trees, bridges and boats are decorated with lights in celebration of the holidays. Continues through late December. 18-30 Nov - Photography Exhibit. "Document the Netherlands: Neighbors." Photos of the Netherlands by three photographers from neighboring countries. Rijksmuseum, Stadhouderskade 42, phone 674-7000. Continues through 18 Feb 2001. 26-30 Nov - PAN Amsterdam. An international art and antique fair. RAI Congrescentrum, Europaplein 8, phone 549-1212. Information: 614-1965. Continues through 3 Dec. Late November - Amsterdam International Documentary Film Festival. Known as one of the most elaborate and diverse showcases of documentary films. For information, call 627-3329. Continues through early December. Throughout November - Concerts. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra performs in the Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6, phone 671-8345. Continues through late June 2001. Throughout November - Opera. Performances by the Netherlands Opera at the Muziektheater, Waterlooplein 22. For tickets, phone 625-5455. Continues through early June 2001. Throughout November - Art Exhibit. "Rembrandt in Various States." Part 2 of a two-part exhibition displaying the artist's drawings and etchings. Rijksmuseum, Stadhouderskade 42, phone 674-7000. Continues through 7 Jan 2001. Throughout November - Art Exhibit. "Light." Art , technology and society in the Industrial Age, 1750-1900. Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7, phone 570-5200. Continues through 11 Feb 2001. Throughout November - Art Exhibit. "Rembrandt's Pupils." Rembrandt's influence as an etcher on his contemporaries and followers. Rembrandthuis, Jodenbreestraat 4-6, phone 624-9486. Continues through 7 Jan 2001. Throughout November - Art Exhibit. "God's Golden Shrine." The history of saints and shrines throughout the Middle Ages, with miniature paintings and samples of shrines. De Nieuwe Kerk, Gravenstraat 17, phone 638-6909. Continues through 28 Feb 2001. DECEMBER 2000 Early December - Amsterdam International Documentary Film Festival. Known as one of the most elaborate and diverse showcases of documentary films. For information, call 627-3329. Concludes early December. 1-3 Dec - PAN Amsterdam. An international art and antique fair. RAI Congrescentrum, Europaplein 8, phone 549-1212. Information: 614-1965. Concludes 3 Dec. 6 Dec - St. Nicholas' Day. The Dutch honor the real St. Nicholas. In the preceding days, many cities have fairs, markets and puppet shows. On the eve of St. Nicholas' Day, gifts are given at home and in the workplace. 25, 26 Dec - Christmas Holidays. Public and religious holidays. Throughout December - Amsterdam in Lights. Throughout the city, hotels, canal houses, trees, bridges and boats are decorated with lights in celebration of the holidays. Concludes late December. Throughout December - Concerts. The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra performs in the Concertgebouw, Concertgebouwplein 2-6, phone 671-8345. Continues through late June 2001. Throughout December - Opera. Performances by the Netherlands Opera at the Muziektheater, Waterlooplein 22. For tickets, phone 625-5455. Continues through early June 2001. Throughout December - Art Exhibit. "Rembrandt in Various States." Part 2 of a two-part exhibition displaying the artist's drawings and etchings. Rijksmuseum, Stadhouderskade 42, phone 674-7000. Continues through 7 Jan 2001. Throughout December - Photography Exhibit. "Document the Netherlands: Neighbors." Photos of the Netherlands by three photographers from neighboring countries. Rijksmuseum, Stadhouderskade 42, phone 674-7000. Continues through 18 Feb 2001. Throughout December - Art Exhibit. "Light." Art , technology and society in the Industrial Age, 1750-1900. Van Gogh Museum, Paulus Potterstraat 7, phone 570-5200. Continues through 11 Feb 2001. Throughout December - Art Exhibit. "Rembrandt's Pupils." Rembrandt's influence as an etcher on his contemporaries and followers. Rembrandthuis, Jodenbreestraat 4-6, phone 624-9486. Continues through 7 Jan 2001. Throughout December - Art Exhibit. "God's Golden Shrine." The history of saints and shrines throughout the Middle Ages, with miniature paintings and samples of shrines. De Nieuwe Kerk, Gravenstraat 17, phone 638-6909. Continues through 28 Feb 2001.